Lighting Difficult Verified Guide

Honda Prelude (4th Gen) Projector Headlight Retrofit

6-10 hours 5 views n0rmaL via PreludePower (adapted)

Introduction

This guide covers converting the sealed reflector headlights on a fourth-generation Honda Prelude to a projector setup, so the car throws a sharp, level cutoff and far better night-time light than the factory optics. The method opens the headlight, mounts a small projector (Acura TSX clear-lens optics are the common choice, with BMW E46, Honda S2000, and Lexus RX330 projectors as alternatives), dresses it with a shroud, and reseals the assembly for an HID kit. The same approach applies to both the JDM one-piece lens and the USDM housings, and it typically costs a few hundred dollars less than buying finished retrofit lights. Plan on fabrication: you will trim the reflector and interior plastics, build or adapt a shroud, and dial in the aim by hand. Adapted from a community writeup by n0rmaL on PreludePower (https://www.preludepower.com/threads/official-retrofit-picture-thread.325818/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.

Reference

B16A specs → B18C specs → F20C specs → H22A specs → K20A specs → K24A specs → R18A4 specs → C20AT specs → EV specs → D17A specs → LEA-MF6 specs → LEA specs → LEB-H5 specs → L15B7 (5PA) specs → L15B7 Gen 2 specs → R20Z2 specs → R20Z1 specs → R20A9 specs → R20A6 specs → R18Z9 specs → R18Z6 specs → B18A specs → D15A1 specs → ET2 specs → ET1 specs → EV1 specs → EW1 specs → EW3 specs → EW4 specs → EW5 specs → D15B2 specs → C27A4 specs → J25A specs → J37A4 specs → J32A3 specs → J32A2 specs → J32A1 specs → G25A4 specs → G25A1 specs → F23A7 specs → B21A1 specs → B20A5 specs → B20A specs → J30AC specs → K20C6 specs → L15BG specs → L15CA specs → D17A6 specs → D17A1 specs → D17A2 specs → K20C2 specs → B20Z2 specs → B20Z1 specs → B20B4 specs → B20B specs → K20Z2 specs → D16A1-Blacktop specs → D16A1-Browntop specs → B18A1 specs → B18C-00-Spec-R specs → B18B specs → B18C-96-Spec-R specs → B18C-98-Spec-R specs → B18C-SiR-G specs → K20A-RAA specs → K24A-RBB specs → J35Z6 specs → JNC1 specs → C32B specs → C30A specs → L15ZF specs → L15BU specs → L13B specs → ZC SOHC specs → ZC SOHC Carb specs → ZC DOHC Gen2 specs → ZC SOHC VTEC specs → D15Z1 specs → D15B8 specs → D15B7 specs → B16A SiRII specs → F22C1 specs → F18B specs → F22B2 specs → F20B-CF4 specs → F20B specs → F23A5 specs → F23A4 specs → F23A1 specs → J30A1 specs → K24A8 specs → K24A4 specs → J30A5 specs → J35Z2 specs → K24W1 specs → J35Y2 specs → J35Y1 specs → L15BE specs → J35Z3 specs → J30A4 specs → B16A3 specs → K20C8 specs → K20C4 specs → K20C1 specs → L15B7 specs → R20A1 specs → R20A3 specs → R18A1 specs → R18Z1 specs → K23A1 specs → K24Z3 specs → K24Z2 specs → K24A1 specs → K20A3 specs → D16A1 specs → B18B1 specs → B18C5 specs → B17A1 specs → H22A4 specs → B16A2 specs → ZC DOHC specs → H23A specs → F22B1 specs → K20Z1 specs → K20A2 specs → D16Z6 specs → B18C1 specs → EA specs → EC specs → ED specs → EF specs → EL specs → EM specs → EN specs → EP specs → ER specs → ES specs → ET specs → EW specs → LEA2 specs → LEC-H5 specs → S20 Transmission → PPL Cylinder Head → RNA Cylinder Head → RNA ECU → PPL ECU → S20 → PPL → RNA →

Tools Required

  • Oven
  • Baking tray and a towel
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Rotary/cutting tool for trimming plastic (e.g. Dremel)
  • Marker for alignment reference

Parts Required

  • Projectors - Acura TSX clear-lens units are the easiest to source (2.5" lens); S2000, Lexus RX330, or BMW E46 bi-xenon optics also work
  • Clear projector lenses in place of the fresnel type
  • HID kit: D2S bulbs (e.g. 4k), a bulb holder/adapter, and a ballast
  • Shrouds/bezels - BMW E46 bezels, or a 3"-4" ABS duct reducer plus a travel-mug chrome ring for a home-built shroud
  • Mounting hardware: 1" L brackets, #8 32x5/8" bolts, nylon lock nuts, and flat plus lock washers; one 1 1/2" bolt for the upper mount
  • High-temperature epoxy rated to roughly 500 degrees
  • Aluminum/foil tape for sealing the rear
  • JB Weld (optional, for additional bond strength)

Safety Warnings

  • Lock every fastener with nylon lock nuts and lock washers; a projector that works loose while driving can shift the beam or fail.
  • The headlight is hot straight out of the oven - handle it with care and let it cool before heavy handling.
  • Do not overheat the housing; use 350 degrees to open and 300 degrees to reseal, both for about 8 minutes, to avoid warping the lens.
  • Improperly aimed HID beams dazzle other drivers - always set the cutoff low and level before regular use.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1 Gather projectors, lenses, and HID components

Gather projectors, lenses, and HID components

Choose a compact projector with a clean cutoff. Acura TSX units are recommended because they are inexpensive, easy to find, and reasonably small; their lens measures 2.5" across. If the projectors ship with fresnel lenses, order clear lenses separately, since the clear glass gives noticeably better output. Also collect the HID hardware you will run inside the finished housing: D2S bulbs (a 4k color temperature is a common pick), a matching bulb holder and adapter, and a ballast.

2 Open the headlight in the oven

Open the headlight in the oven

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Take out the five metal retaining clips, pull the bulbs and rubber dust caps, and unscrew the two internal brackets (two screws each). Rest the headlight on a baking tray padded with a towel. Switch the oven off, put the housing in, and leave it about 8 minutes to soften the butyl seal. Working slowly, walk a flathead screwdriver around the full perimeter, easing the lens away from the housing a little at a time until it separates cleanly.

3 Trim the reflector and interior plastics

Trim the reflector and interior plastics

Open up the reflector around the factory bulb hole so the projector can sit where the stock bulb pointed. Cut slightly less than you think you need on the first pass; you can always enlarge the opening, but you cannot put material back, and a conservative cut keeps the projector aimed close to the original direction. Remove the two screws holding the black interior plastic piece on the lens and trim it as required to clear both the projector body and the shroud. Finally, relieve the back of the housing where the bulb clip sits so nothing binds or rubs.

4 Mount the projector securely

Mount the projector securely

Fasten the projector with 1" L brackets and #8 32x5/8" bolts. Bolt only one side at first so you can rough in the cutoff and swivel the unit before committing the rest. Keep the projector level relative to the lens; the housing's own adjusters handle final aim once the car is assembled. Add a third bolt at the top (a 1 1/2" bolt works well) so the projector cannot rotate or drift. Use nylon lock nuts and lock washers throughout to keep everything from loosening on the road, and add JB Weld behind the projector and reflector bowl if you want extra rigidity.

5 Fit and bond the shroud, then seal the rear

Fit and bond the shroud, then seal the rear

Dress the front of the projector with a shroud. BMW E46 bezels are a popular ready-made option, though you will usually need to trim their top and bottom to clear the housing; alternatively, build one from a 3"-4" ABS duct reducer capped with the chrome ring off a travel mug. Run a bead of high-temperature epoxy (rated to about 500 degrees) inside the shroud, press it onto the projector, and hold it steady roughly 10 minutes until it sets hard. Cover any exposed openings at the back of the assembly with aluminum foil tape, which seals reliably and holds up to the heat.

6 Reseal the headlight

Reseal the headlight

Clean both mating surfaces thoroughly. Warm the housing again, this time at 300 degrees for 8 minutes, to reflow the seal, then press the lens firmly back onto the housing. Reinstall the original metal clips right away; they clamp the two halves together while the sealant cools and cures, which makes a much tidier, leak-free bond.

7 Install on the car and aim the beams

Install on the car and aim the beams

Refit the headlights and wire in the HID ballasts. To aim, park about 20-25ft from a flat wall, level the two cutoffs so they match each other, then drive and observe. Return and fine-tune until the beams sit where you want them, keeping them on the low side so you do not blind oncoming drivers. If a light stays aimed too high and the adjusters run out of travel, tighten the lower housing screws while loosening the upper ones, and add small springs to hold the tension; with the L-bracket mount, gently bending the brackets also nudges the projector into place.

Pro Tips

  • 💡 Clear-lens TSX projectors are the friendliest to mount; S2000 and BMW E46 bi-xenon are solid alternatives, while RX330 optics are similar to TSX but harder to fit.
  • 💡 When cutting the reflector, remove less than you estimate on the first pass and re-check the fit; you can always enlarge the hole.
  • 💡 Aim on the low side as a courtesy to oncoming traffic, then confirm on a real drive rather than only against a wall.
  • 💡 Aluminum foil tape has proven durable for sealing the exposed rear of the housing.
  • 💡 Doing the work yourself typically saves about $200-300 compared with buying finished retrofit headlights.

Was this guide helpful?