Installing a Bolt-In K-Swap Short Shifter and Shifter Cables (Civic EG/EK, Integra DC2)

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Time 3-5 hours

Level Moderate

Steps 17

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Caution

Never work under a car supported only by a jack; use jack stands on solid ground.
Check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring on both sides of the tunnel before drilling.
Wear eye protection when drilling overhead.

Introduction

A K-series transmission is shifted by two cables, so a K-swapped Civic or Integra that came with a rod-shifted B or D-series gearbox needs a cable shifter box. A bolt-in shifter mounts from underneath the shift tunnel, using the two factory shifter holes at the rear plus two holes you drill at the front, so the factory center console still fits. This guide covers mounting the shifter, fitting the cables at both ends and setting throw and knob position. Hybrid Racing lists its A2 bolt-in shifter for 1984-2000 Civic and CRX, 1992-1997 del Sol and 1990-2001 Integra, with transmissions including the JDM Type R (Y2M3, NPR3), RSX Type-S (X2M5), base RSX (W2M5), 2002-05 Civic Si, 2005-06 RSX Type-S (NSN4) and the CR-V/Element AWD K24 gearboxes. K20Z3 and K24Z gearboxes are not on the A2's list (Hybrid Racing sells a separate Z3 bolt-in shifter), and its K20A/A2/A3/Z1 cable set is listed as not working with K20Z3 or K24 transmissions or in an EF Civic, so buy cables made for your exact gearbox and chassis. Adapted from a community writeup by Hybrid Racing on guides.hybrid-racing.com (https://guides.hybrid-racing.com/Guide/K-Series+Swap+Bolt-In+Short+Shifter+V1+%28outdated%29/20).

Procedure

17 steps

Step 1: Confirm the shifter, cables and transmission match

Check the shifter maker's transmission list against the gearbox you are installing and buy cables made for that gearbox. If the car was an automatic from the factory, the welded automatic shifter-cable bracket inside the tunnel must be cut out first; after that the job is the same as on a manual chassis.
Step 2: Raise the car and remove the shifter's covers

Support the car securely on jack stands. On the bench, remove the four small M5 bolts that hold the shifter's dust cover (3 mm Allen) and lift off the aluminium debris shield so you can reach the cable mounting points later.
Step 3: Trial-fit the shifter at the rear holes

From underneath, push the shifter up into the tunnel and thread two M8 bolts (6 mm Allen) through the rear holes of the shifter into the chassis' original shifter mounting holes. Snug them until the shifter sits flush against the tunnel.
Step 4: Mark the front mounting holes

With the shifter held in place, mark where its two front mounting holes meet the tunnel using a metallic marker or chalk.
Step 5: Drill the two front holes

Unbolt and lower the shifter. Check what is on both sides of the marked spots, then drill a 1/8 in pilot hole at each mark and open both up with a 3/8 in bit. Deburr the holes.
Step 6: Connect the fore-aft cable to the shifter

If you are reusing OEM cables, attach them to the shifter before the shifter goes back into the car; aftermarket cables can usually go on before or after. Feed the fore-aft (front/back) cable in from the front of the shifter and push its spring clip in from below.
Step 7: Connect the side-to-side cable

For OEM cables, insert the side-to-side cable with its tabs facing down and turn it 45 degrees to lock it. For Hybrid Racing cables, insert it from the front and fit the spring clip from below.
Step 8: Fit the rubber tunnel seal

Lay the supplied rubber seal on top of the shifter with its four holes lined up with the shifter's mounting holes. It keeps exhaust heat, water, dirt and road noise out of the cabin.
Step 9: Bolt the shifter up from below

Hold the shifter and seal against the underside of the tunnel and install the two rear M8 bolts with a flat washer and a lock washer each; the lock washer goes between the bolt head and the flat washer. Tighten until the lock washers are fully compressed, keeping the shifter lined up with the two new front holes.
Step 10: Install the front bolts from inside the car

From the cabin, install the two front M8 bolts with flat and lock washers into the shifter's front holes and tighten until the lock washers flatten. Go back underneath and re-tighten the rear bolts, which can loosen as the front ones pull the shifter up.
Step 11: Attach the cables to the shifter rockers on the longest throw

Attach each cable end to its steel rocker. The rockers have several holes; the lower the cable sits on the rocker, the shorter the throw. Start on the longest-throw position for both cables until you are used to the shifter; a very short throw on an unfamiliar shifter makes it easier to miss a gear and over-rev the engine.
Step 12: Secure the cable retaining bolts

Slide the cable end onto its retaining bolt with the supplied Delrin washers between the cable end and the rocker, add a lock washer and tighten until it compresses. On the Hybrid Racing unit the fore-aft cable bolt takes a 5 mm Allen key and the side-to-side bolt a 13 mm wrench. Fit a new cotter pin through the end of each retaining bolt.
Step 13: Refit the debris shield

Bolt the aluminium debris shield back onto the shifter with its M5 bolts.
Step 14: Connect the cables at the transmission

Hybrid Racing's cable kits often come with two sizes of insert for the transmission's gear-selector pin because the pin size changed over production years; use the one that slides on with no free play. Fit each end link so the large face of the insert sits flat against the selector, and secure it with the supplied retaining clip. Hybrid Racing warns that a clip left on the underside can freeze and bend the cable. Clip each cable housing into the transmission cable bracket with its spring C-clip. Clip and pin hardware differs between cable kits, so follow the instructions that came with yours.
Step 15: Route the cables

Run both cables to the shifter without kinks and keep them away from the exhaust and other heat sources. With the under-tunnel bolt-in shifter, Hybrid Racing routes them between the subframe and the floor. Hybrid Racing rates its cables to 225 F with a 5 in minimum bend radius.
Step 16: Fit the offset block and set knob position

The upper shift rod bolts to an aluminium offset block that can be clocked to several positions; start at the 6 o'clock position. Bolt the block to the lower rod with the M6 bolt and lock washer (5 mm Allen). Fit the shift boot before the block if you want the block visible, or after if you want it hidden. Knob height is set by removing two M4 bolts (3 mm Allen), sliding the rod in 10 mm steps and refitting the bolts.
Step 17: Check every gear before driving

With the engine off, shift through every gear including reverse and confirm each one engages fully. Have a helper rock the engine on its mounts while you check the cables do not bind or get pulled tight. Shorten the throw only once you are used to the shifter.

Tips

The Hybrid Racing install guide used here is labelled V1; the current A2 product page lists three throw settings (100%, 75% and 50% of stock) for both directions. Follow the paper instructions that came with your shifter if they differ.
Reusing OEM cables means attaching them before bolting the shifter in, so plan the order before you lift the shifter into the tunnel.

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