Parrot CK3100 Hands-Free Kit and Multicomm Steering-Wheel Control Retrofit (Honda Civic Type S / FK)

Ease the surrounding dash trim and the head unit out to expose the ISO connectors and the cavity behind the centre console. Work the clips loose with a plastic spatula or trim tool rather than a screwdriver so the panels are not marked or cracked. You do not need to strip the entire dash — only enough clearance to reach the radio connectors and to feed cabling into the console void behind the gear lever.

Connect the CK3100's harness to the vehicle using the Iso2Car adaptor made for the Civic. The adaptor sits inline between the factory ISO plugs and the head unit, so the kit draws power, ground, and speaker mute through it with nothing on the original wiring cut or joined. Match the keyed connectors and seat them fully; there is no ambiguity in how they mate, which is what makes the audio side effectively plug-and-play.

Wrap the main control unit and its cable bundle in foam to protect it from rattles and road vibration, then settle it into the empty space behind the gear lever. Coil and stow the surplus cable in the gaps behind the console panels so nothing fouls moving parts or buzzes against trim. Keep the connectors accessible in case the kit later needs a firmware update or fault-finding.

Undo the three screws on the underside of the steering-column shroud and lift the plastic covers away to reveal the loom running up to the wheel. You are looking for a 20-pin connector; viewed from the rear where the wires exit, the pins run as an upper row (20 down to 11) over a lower row (10 down to 01). The signal you need is the pink wire on the upper row at pin 14 — the fourth position in from the right-hand end of that row. Splice the Multicomm's single V1 lead onto this pink wire. That one connection is all the Multicomm requires; the rest of its wiring simply plugs into the CK3100.

Fit the microphone at the top of the A-pillar so only the small capsule is visible, angled toward the driver. Run its cable down under the rubber door seal at the edge of the pillar; lifting the seal gives an easy path into the dash cavity at its lower end, so the A-pillar trim itself can stay in place. Feed the plug through to the control box behind the console. Mounting the mic centrally and high gives clear speech pickup for anyone in the cabin while keeping the install nearly invisible.

The kit's yellow mute lead does not have to be connected on this fitment. Because the CK3100 mutes and un-mutes the audio automatically whenever a call starts and ends, the system works correctly with that wire left unused — several people completed the install without joining it. This also removes the guesswork over which of the possible mute points to use.

Check that the kit powers down with the ignition rather than sitting live permanently. If the ignition and constant-live feeds are transposed, swap them at the harness — an easy change, but verify it before reassembling everything. The tell-tale is the spoken prompt: the Parrot should announce "Goodbye" as the ignition is switched off. If it does, the power feeds are on the correct terminals.

Before buttoning up, bring the kit up to the current firmware (V4.18a at the time of this writeup) to clear known bugs such as stray beeps. Updating needs a serial Bluetooth link between a PC and the kit — the ordinary audio Bluetooth pairing connects on its own but will not carry the update, so a cheap USB Bluetooth adaptor is enough to establish the serial channel. Once updated and tested, refit the trim panels and the head unit, working the clips home by hand.