High-Flow Fuel Pump Upgrade Using the Factory Honda/Acura In-Tank Hanger

Decide your power goal before touching the hanger, because it drives every other choice. For pump-gas builds up to roughly 600 hp, a -6AN feed with the stock-size return and 10 AWG wiring is adequate; the incremental voltage drop of 10 AWG through a spade terminal is minor and still far better than 12 or 14 AWG. For builds beyond 600 hp or E85, plan on a larger -8AN feed and a dedicated -6AN return. Select a high-flow in-tank pump such as an Aero Stealth 340 or Walbro 450 to suit the plan. As a real-world reference point, the source build ran an Aero 340 with 1150cc Grams injectors at about 67 percent duty on pump gas, feeding a turbo 2.3L making 500 wheel horsepower.

The cleanest and most leak-free method reuses the hanger's original wire pass-throughs rather than drilling new holes. Route the ground to the hanger's grounding point and run the power lead to the OEM spade connection, exactly as the factory circuit was arranged. De-pin the pump's own connector, then solder the heavy-gauge power wire directly to the pump lead so the pump is fed by 10 AWG (or 8 AWG) all the way to the motor rather than a thin factory pigtail. Keeping the wire routed through the sealed OEM insulator this way sidesteps the fuel-wicking and sealing problems that come with aftermarket pass-through fittings.

Reuse the factory spade terminals on the top hat, but give yourself working room: break away one side of the shared connector body so the two spade tabs are separated. Crimp a tight insulated female terminal onto each heavy-gauge wire and push it firmly onto its tab, confirming a snug, positive fit on both the power and sending-unit circuits. If you dislike spades, an alternative is to trim the plastic off the original power-wire bulkhead and fit an M6 capscrew and nut as a stud, which slides into the factory insulator through the hanger. Whatever you choose, do NOT use a loose rubber-grommet-and-stud arrangement: the stud can shift and short against the tank, powering or grounding the tank and frying the pump and sender wiring.

On a 94-97 Acura Integra hanger the feed uses a banjo boss on the top hat, which is convenient: thread a banjo-to--6AN 90 degree fitting (such as the B&R Fittings piece) into that boss to pick up the feed. Use a smooth-bend fitting rather than a hard 90, because a sharp bend at the pump outlet promotes cavitation. From there run -6AN line to the engine. If your hanger instead has a tapped boss, an alternative used by builders is to drill out the banjo location and tap it for an NPT/AN fitting (for example M14x1.25 to -8AN).

Install an inline micron filter in the feed line downstream of the pump. For the return, the simplest build keeps the smaller factory return hard line, which is fine at moderate power. To go larger, the 98-01 Integra hanger carries two hard lines with no banjo, which lets you repurpose one larger hard line as an upsized return: cut the return pipe from the top and bottom of the hanger, drill it out, and tap it for a bulkhead fitting (for example M14x1.25 to -8AN). Builders drilling out the old return pipe commonly install an ATL-type bulkhead fitting there. If you upsize the feed to a -6AN quick-disconnect line, that line can instead become the new -6AN return, in which case you must still work out a solution for the feed.

If you prefer a packaged solution, a JBtuned Walbro 450 hanger mod kit is available in -6AN and -8AN versions, and also for the 340/320 pumps. It uses smooth-bend fittings instead of hard 90s, avoiding the cavitation concern. Be cautious with aftermarket two-wire bulkhead wire fittings such as the ATL part: they are offered in 12 and 14 AWG only, not 10 AWG. Enlarging the wire holes to force in 10 AWG risks a poor seal, and fuel can wick through the strands of wire that is not fuel-rated, so this route can create more work than the OEM pass-through method.

Power the pump through a dedicated relay so the heavy-gauge circuit is switched cleanly and does not load the factory pump wiring. Feed relay power from the alternator, ground the pump circuit to the battery ground, and protect the heavy-gauge run with a 30 amp inline circuit breaker. Use a Bosch-style relay triggered by the original pump control signal. Confirm the pump sees full system voltage under load with a multimeter.

If any part of your chosen method required drilling the top hat, seal those openings with a fuel-resistant tank epoxy and let it fully cure before reassembly. Reinstall the hanger with a fresh gasket or O-ring, reconnect the feed, return, and electrical connections, and then cycle the pump with the lines connected but the engine off. Check for fuel weeping at every fitting and around the top hat, and watch for any sign of the wiring circuit backfeeding the tank. Only return the car to service once the system holds pressure with no leaks.