Lighting Difficult Verified Guide

Honda Civic (FK): Fitting a Type R (CTR) Rear Centre Light Panel

3-5 hours 5 views Syx via Civinfo (adapted)

Introduction

This guide covers swapping the standard rear centre light panel on a pre-2009 (pre-facelift) eighth-generation Honda Civic hatch for the Civic Type R (CTR) centre light strip, giving the rear end the sought-after Type R appearance. Because the ordinary car locates its rear fog lamp inside the centre cluster while the Type R panel has no fog position, the job is more than a straight swap: the fog must be relocated and rewired so the car stays road-legal. It applies to UK/EU FK-generation Civics fitting an FN2 Type R centre panel, and touches on the related brake/fog side panels and bulb-holder fitment issues that come with the conversion. Expect to remove the inner tailgate trim (or work through the bulb covers with a spanner), transfer bulbs, and carry out some connector-level rewiring. Adapted from a community writeup by Syx on Civinfo (https://www.civinfo.com/threads/how-to-replace-rear-centre-light-panel-pre-2009.70681/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.

Tools Required

  • 8mm ring spanner
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • Pliers
  • Small craft blade
  • Pin or thin nail (for connector terminals)
  • Hair dryer or heat source
  • Electrical tape

Parts Required

  • Type R (CTR) rear centre light panel
  • Type R brake/fog side light panel (optional, if not rewiring the fog)
  • Fog light bulb holder from Honda (same as reverse/number-plate light holder)
  • 921 12V 21W capless bulb (for the relocated fog)
  • Red bulb, or high-temp red caliper paint as a stopgap
  • Electrical tape

Safety Warnings

  • Keep control of every nut as it comes free; dropped nuts fall into the tailgate cavity and can only be recovered by removing the inner trim.
  • Do not pull the trim by its moulded handles, as this directs force away from the pins and cracks the panel.
  • Tape off the disconnected reverse light wires to prevent short circuits before reassembly.
  • Any rear lamp left inoperative can make the car non-compliant for road use and fail an MOT; verify every function before driving.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1 Choose an access method and remove the bulb covers

There are two ways to reach the panel's retaining nuts: through the small bulb-service covers on the tailgate trim using a slim ring spanner, or by taking the entire inner tailgate trim off. Many people in the discussion reported success using only an 8mm ring spanner, so attempt that route first before committing to full trim removal. Undo the two screws sitting behind the tailgate handles. The rounded-rectangular cover in the middle conceals no fasteners, so leave it in place. Pop off the small covers over the bulbs to try to reach the nuts from behind.

2 Remove the inner tailgate trim if the nuts are blocked

On many cars the boot-side plastic hides some nuts and a spanner will not reach them; if that is your situation the inner trim has to come off. Warm the panel first with a hair dryer so it flexes instead of cracking, because cold, brittle plastic is what usually breaks. Study where the white nylon pins sit and always pull the trim directly over a pin, never by the moulded handles. Slide a flat plastic trim tool down from the top to release one upper popper; once one lets go the neighbouring ones free easily by hand. Then climb into the boot, brace your feet against the lower boot floor, and draw the lower edge straight toward you with steady force. The two retainers beside the latch often stay in the bodywork; pull them out with pliers and press them back into the trim.

3 Undo the panel retaining nuts

With the rear of the assembly exposed, work off the nuts. Each side light panel is held by three nuts and the centre light section by ten. Two of the centre nuts sit out of direct reach and are turned through access holes in the metalwork, and two others are threadlocked because they also secure the handle section. Most spin off without trouble. Keep a magnet or your fingers under each nut as it releases, because several people dropped nuts down into the tailgate cavity and could not retrieve them without removing the trim.

4 Release the wiring and withdraw the centre panel

Unplug every connector feeding the centre light section. Move to the outside of the car and ease each brake light panel away from its outer edge until its locating tabs clear the centre unit. Once the tabs are released, draw the centre panel out of the tailgate.

5 Transfer the bulbs and fit the Type R centre panel

Move the bulb holders across into the new Type R centre panel; they release with a twist and a pull, and a couple sit tight enough that pliers help. Seat the new panel in the tailgate and reinstall the nuts from the inside. If you also have the matching Type R brake/fog side panel, fit it now; if not, refit your original side lights for the moment.

6 Plan the fog light that the Type R centre panel omits

The standard pre-facelift car carries its rear fog inside the centre cluster, but the Type R centre panel has no fog position, so the fog must move elsewhere to keep the car road-legal. If your Type R side panel already includes the fog housing and its bulb holder, splice the existing fog feed into that new housing and skip the rewire in the next step. If you lack the fog housing, relocate the fog into the driver's-side reverse light so it sits on the correct side for legality.

7 Rewire the fog into the driver's-side reverse light

Peel back the loom tape to free slack in the fog cable so it reaches the reverse light housing. On the fog connector, prise off the removable section of the plastic body with a small blade to expose the terminals, depress the white locking tabs with a pin or nail, and slide out the yellow and black wires; keep the plastic body in case you ever fit a proper fog housing later. On the reverse light connector, pull the plastic centre pin, then reach in with the pin to lift the side-mounted locking tabs and withdraw the brown and black wires. Fit the yellow and black fog wires into the reverse connector in their place. Insulate the freed reverse wires and tape them onto the loom so nothing shorts or rattles.

8 Fit a red bulb, reassemble and test

Install a red bulb in the relocated fog; if a red one is unavailable, a clear bulb coated in high-temp red caliper paint works as a temporary measure. Push the fog unit into its home in the reverse light aperture and reconnect everything. Switch on and confirm the fog, brake, side and reverse lights all behave correctly. Finally retape the loom, refit the interior plastics (they need firm pressure to reseat every pin), and replace the two screws by the handles.

Pro Tips

  • 💡 The Type R fog/side unit's opening accepts only a single-filament sidelight bulb, not the dual side/brake bulb. To keep a brake light in that spot you must enlarge the hole and cut fresh tab slots, or trim the bulb holder to fit; otherwise you lose that brake filament.
  • 💡 The fog bulb holder matches the reverse or number-plate light holder and can be ordered from Honda. Fit a 921 12v 21w capless bulb for adequate fog brightness rather than the 5w capless 501 a parts counter may offer.
  • 💡 One member reported that a dual-filament Horizon T20/7443 CREE LED 16W worked in the side/brake position; measure the bulb diameter against the housing before buying.
  • 💡 Warm, flexible plastic is the key to removing the tailgate trim without cracking it; several attempts failed on cold panels.
  • 💡 A replacement centre panel runs roughly 80 pounds from a dealer up to around 105 pounds from Lings, so a used unit from a breaker is worth seeking.

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