Third-Generation Acura Integra Coilover, Shock, and Spring Installation
Introduction
This guide covers replacing the factory front and rear suspension on a third-generation Acura Integra (DC2/DB, 1994-2001) with an aftermarket coilover or spring-and-strut setup, using a 1995 Integra as the reference car. Swapping in coilovers lowers ride height, sharpens handling, and lets you dial in corner balance, but it is a demanding job: seized or corroded fasteners are common, and a loaded spring stores enough energy to cause serious injury if it releases uncontrolled. Expect the front corners to take the most effort and the rear to go quickly. Because every car's fasteners are in different condition, treat this as a general roadmap rather than a guarantee that your install will match step for step. Plan on an extra set of hands for the front assemblies. Adapted from a community writeup by MorningZ on Team Integra (https://www.team-integra.net/threads/g3-coilover-shocks-springs-install.342581/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Floor jack and jack stands
- Lug wrench
- Metric socket set including 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets
- 1/2" drive ratchet (preferred over 3/8" for leverage)
- Breaker bar or a length of pipe for extra leverage
- 14mm and 17mm open-end wrenches
- Metric allen (hex) key set
- Spring compressor kit
Parts Required
-
Front and rear coilover or spring/strut assemblies (e.g. HR Racing coilovers)
-
Replacement shocks/struts if running a separate spring-and-damper setup (e.g. KYB GR2)
-
Retained OEM upper-mount hardware (top washers and upper circular seat) as directed by the kit
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ A compressed suspension spring stores enough energy to cause serious injury; always use a proper spring compressor and never disassemble a loaded strut without one.
- ⚠ When unthreading the top nut, aim the assembly at a solid object so nothing is damaged or struck if the spring releases.
- ⚠ Support the car only on jack stands with no weight on the suspension; never rely on the jack alone.
- ⚠ Expect frozen or rusted bolts and work them patiently to avoid rounding fasteners or personal injury.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Lift and support the car, then remove the front wheels
Crack the front lug nuts loose while the car is still on the ground. Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands so no weight remains on the suspension. Finish removing the lug nuts and pull both front wheels. As a safety habit, tuck each removed wheel partway under the sill near where you are working.
2 Loosen the upper strut mount in the engine bay
Open the hood and locate the two brass-colored 14mm nuts that secure the top of each front strut assembly to the tower. Loosen these now but do not remove them yet; leaving them threaded on keeps the assembly captive while you free the bottom. A pipe over the ratchet handle gives extra leverage on any fastener that fights back, and you will lean on that trick repeatedly through this job.
3 Release the front brake line and lower shock collar
At the strut, remove the two 12mm bolts that clamp the brake line bracket to the assembly so the line can hang free without strain. Then back off the 14mm bolt at the collar that captures the bottom of the shock in the pivot arm.
4 Break loose the lower pivot bolt
The lower end of the assembly swings on a long pivot bolt that runs parallel to the side of the car. Hold one end steady with a 17mm open-end wrench while turning the opposite end with a 17mm socket, and work it loose. Pressing down on the brake rotor takes tension off the bolt and helps it move. Aim to fully withdraw the bolt, but for now getting it very loose is enough.
5 Withdraw the complete front strut assembly
With the lower fasteners freed, go back to the engine bay and take out the two brass 14mm nuts at the top. Push down on the brake rotor to open up clearance, then work the entire strut, spring, and shock assembly out of the wheel well as a unit.
6 Compress the spring and separate the assembly
Fit the spring compressors onto the coils and tension them evenly so the spring is held captive before anything comes apart; the compressors used here take a 1/2" drive ratchet in their ends. Insert an allen key into the top of the shock shaft to stop it from spinning, then hold the brass top nut with a 14mm open-end wrench and unthread it. Point the top of the assembly at something solid that can absorb it in case the spring shifts. Note that the allen-key shaft feature is an OEM shock detail; some aftermarket shocks instead need a small open-end wrench on the shaft flats. Once the top nut is off, remove the spring compressors.
7 Build up the new front assembly
Assemble each new coilover or strut following the instructions supplied with your kit. Typically you reuse the OEM upper washers that retain the sleeve plus the circular upper seat removed earlier. Leave the cylindrical dust cover out, as it prevents the assembly from seating together correctly on these units. Reinstall the spring compressors during assembly if a captive spring is involved, and back them off only once the top hardware is secured.
8 Fit the new front assembly into the car
Guide the completed assembly back into the wheel well. Seat the shock's lower end into the pivot-arm collar first, then feed the upper studs up through the strut tower and start the 14mm nuts by hand. To line up the lower pivot bolt, put a floor jack under the rotor/hub and raise it until the holes align, then push the bolt through the arm.
9 Torque down the front fasteners
Fully tighten the two upper mount nuts in the engine bay, then the lower pivot bolt, the shock collar bolt, and the brake-line bracket bolts. Recheck every fastener with the breaker bar; a loose suspension fastener is not acceptable. Repeat the entire front procedure on the opposite corner.
10 Remove the rear assemblies
The rear corners are simpler, with only four bolts each. Start on the lowest bolt, which threads directly into the assembly. Remove the second bolt located just above the brake rotor; jacking up on the rotor relieves pressure and eases it out. Then remove the two inner top bolts, reaching them through the access hole behind the interior side panel. With those out, push down on the rotor from outside and the stock unit drops free.
11 Assemble and install the new rear units
Dismantle each stock rear unit with the spring compressors and correct tools, then build the new rear coilover or strut per the kit instructions, as you did up front. Install each new assembly and reinstall all four bolts, tightening them fully and rechecking each one.
12 Set ride height and final-check
With all four corners installed and the car back on the ground, set the adjustable ride height to your target. Roll the car and confirm everything is solid. Because the springs settle after the first miles, plan to recheck and readjust ride height and corner balance a short time after the install.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Use a 1/2" drive ratchet with a breaker bar or pipe for leverage; the factory fasteners can be very tight or corroded.
- 💡 The front corners are far more involved than the rear, and a second person makes wrangling the assemblies much easier.
- 💡 A floor jack under the rotor is the key to realigning the lower pivot bolt on reassembly.
- 💡 Reserve time to re-check ride height and adjustments after the suspension settles in.
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