Smoked Taillights with VHT Night Shades Aerosol Tint (Acura RSX)
Introduction
This guide covers darkening (smoking) the rear taillight lenses of an Acura RSX using VHT Night Shades, a translucent aerosol tint that sprays directly onto the outside of the lens. Because the coating is translucent, the amber, red, and white bulb colors still project through it when the lights are on, so the housings keep functioning while gaining a tinted look. It is an inexpensive alternative to buying pre-smoked or European lenses, and it is forgiving: a mistake can be wiped back off with paint thinner before it fully cures. Darkness is controlled entirely by how many light coats you apply, so the same product produces anything from a barely-there tint to a deep blackout. The method is popular on the DC5 RSX but transfers to most Honda and Acura lenses; a can typically runs about 15-20 USD (roughly 20 CAD) and is sold mostly online. Removing the housings first gives more even coverage and far less masking than tinting on the car. Adapted from a community writeup by ScOoTLy on Club RSX (https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-smoked-taillights.283982/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 8mm and 10mm socket with ratchet (taillight retaining nuts)
- Phillips screwdriver (underbody taillight screws)
- Masking tape and paper
- Wet-sanding paper (fine grit, e.g. 1500-2000)
- Rubbing/polishing compound
- Buffing or waxing wheel (optional, for a smoother finish)
- Clean lint-free cloths
- Paint thinner or lacquer thinner (for corrections and future removal)
Parts Required
-
VHT Night Shades translucent aerosol tint (1 can covers both lenses)
-
Clear lacquer (optional, for added gloss, depth, and durability)
-
Plastic polish such as PlastX (optional finishing)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Legality varies by state and country. Many jurisdictions require taillamps to remain red and visible from a set distance to the rear (for example, California requires post-1969 vehicles to be plainly visible within 1,000 feet); a commonly cited rule is visibility from 500 feet. Check local law before driving on public roads.
- ⚠ Keep the reverse (backup) lamp white by masking it; a tinted reverse lamp is both a legal and a safety problem.
- ⚠ Do not cut or pry open the taillight housing to tint the inside; the case is not designed to be reopened and can be ruined.
- ⚠ Apply only light mist coats. Heavy application runs and dries with permanent visible drips.
- ⚠ Support the vehicle safely and use care when reaching the underbody Phillips screws behind the bumper.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Plan the darkness and gather supplies
Decide how dark you want the lenses before you start, because coat count is the only variable that matters. A subtle, factory-adjacent tint takes only about two to three light coats; the original poster initially suggested five for a light look but corrected that down to two or three, noting the product darkens very quickly. A deep smoke look takes roughly seven light coats. One can is plenty for both lenses with material left over, as seven light coats on a pair uses only about half a can. Vinyl and pre-cut tint films are alternatives some members prefer, but the aerosol is the cheapest route and the easiest to undo if you are unhappy with the result.
2 Remove both taillight housings
Tinting off the car yields a more even coat and avoids extensive masking. On the 05-06 RSX, open the hatch and pop the small trim access doors to reach the two retaining nuts behind each lens (fasteners are in the 8-10mm range). Twist and unplug the bulb holders first (about four per side) so the wiring is out of the way, then back out the nuts. Underneath the car, directly behind the bumper, remove the two Phillips screws that also hold the housing. That is roughly four fastening points per side. Earlier RSX taillights instead hide a single lower bolt that requires dropping the rear bumper, so check what your year uses before forcing anything.
3 Clean the lens and mask the reverse lamp
Wipe each lens completely clean and dry so the coating lays down evenly with no trapped dust or oils. Mask off any area you want to stay clear, most importantly the reverse (backup) lamp section, which must remain white to stay legal and functional; blocking that portion keeps a clear window while the rest of the lens darkens. Do not crack the housing open to spray the inside. Unlike headlights, the taillight case is not built to be reopened, and members who tried warned it risks ruining the assembly.
4 Apply thin misted coats to both lenses
Spray in light mist passes only, holding the can well back from the lens. Treating it like ordinary spray paint causes runs that show up permanently once the coating dries. Let every coat flash off and dry fully before adding the next. Work both lenses in the same session, alternating between them, so the tone stays matched side to side. Keep counting coats against your target: stop around two or three for a light tint, or build toward seven for a dark, blacked-out look.
5 Smooth the texture and add an optional clear coat
The bare finish feels rough and can look dull up close. For a glassy result, lightly wet-sand between coats, then after the final coat cut the texture back with rubbing compound on a buffing or waxing wheel and finish with a plastic polish such as PlastX. Take your time with the compound to work out all the roughness. An optional clear lacquer over the tint adds gloss, deepens the color further, and improves chip resistance and longevity; if you plan to clear coat, do not leave the surface rough underneath it.
6 Reinstall the housings and verify output
Reinstall in reverse order: seat each housing, reconnect all bulb holders, and refit the hatch-side nuts and the underbody Phillips screws. With everything wired back up, test brake, turn, reverse, and running lamps and confirm each is clearly visible. The tint is only noticeable when the lamps are lit, and the underlying amber, red, and white colors should still read correctly through the coating.
7 Reverse the tint if needed
The coating is not permanent. If you want to return to a stock appearance, or you get a fix-it citation before an inspection, paint thinner or lacquer thinner strips the tint back off the lens. Because it removes cleanly, many members re-tint after inspection rather than committing to a permanent film. This reversibility is the main practical advantage of the spray over adhesive tint film, which is harder to remove without leaving marks or creases.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Coat count sets the darkness: about 2-3 light coats for a subtle tint, up to 7 for a deep smoke. The product darkens fast, so err on the side of fewer coats.
- 💡 Do both taillights in the same session and alternate coats so the two sides match.
- 💡 Buffing the final coat with rubbing compound and a plastic polish (PlastX) removes the rough texture and gives a much cleaner, shinier finish.
- 💡 Wet-sanding lightly between coats improves the final smoothness before an optional clear lacquer.
- 💡 The tint is translucent, so no reflective prep is needed; the bulb colors still project through at night.
- 💡 A single can covers both lenses with plenty left over, so buy one can to start.
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