K-Series Engine Swap into Civic EG / Integra DC Chassis (Part 1: Mounting)
Introduction
This guide covers the first phase of dropping a Honda K-series engine and transmission into an EG-generation Civic or a DC-generation Integra: stripping the bay of the outgoing B- or D-series driveline, cutting the chassis clearances the K-series requires, and hanging the new engine on a conversion mount kit. Because the K-series sits and mounts differently from the factory B/D driveline, portions of the original transmission bracket and subframe condenser brackets must be removed, the radiator gets relocated, and the swap relies on a kit that reuses the tow-hook location for a timing-chain-side mount. Read through fully before starting, since several fasteners are left finger-tight until the whole assembly is aligned and only then cross-tightened. This is heavy, fabrication-adjacent work that generally calls for a hoist, a helper, and a comfortable place to cut metal. Adapted from a community writeup by K20EG on K20A.org (https://www.k20a.org/threads/k-series-swap-guide-part-1.179/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Engine hoist / crane
- Sawzall or 5 inch die grinder
- Socket and wrench set
- Jack stands and floor jack
- General hand tools
Parts Required
-
K-series conversion engine mount kit (rear mount, timing-chain-side small and large mounts, driver-side transmission bracket)
-
Supplied mounting hardware
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2x 1/2 inch spacers (supplied with kit)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Support the vehicle on rated jack stands and keep the engine controlled on the hoist at all times; a suspended driveline is a serious crush hazard.
- ⚠ Wear eye and hearing protection and check behind the metal before cutting the transmission bracket or subframe condenser brackets.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Strip the outgoing driveline and bay components
Pull the existing B- or D-series engine and transmission from the car. While the bay is open, clear out everything the K-series conversion does not reuse: the shift linkage, the rear engine mount, the battery tray, the radiator, and the clutch slave cylinder. Take out the entire length of clutch hardline rather than leaving a stub. Detach the wiring-plug brackets that carry the existing chassis harness connectors so the bay is clear for the new engine and its mounts.
2 Prepare the engine bay and relocate the radiator
Create the clearance the K-series needs. Cut away the factory transmission bracket that would otherwise interfere with the new engine; a reciprocating saw or a 5 inch die grinder handles this cleanly. Remove the condenser brackets on the lower subframe as well, since the radiator is relocated into that freed-up area. Dress any cut edges before moving on.
3 Route and secure the chassis harness plugs
Rather than cutting the factory engine-harness connectors, push the plugs back through the firewall into the cabin. Tuck and secure them up under the dash so they stay clear of the new engine and are available later. Do not cut these plugs off, as they are retained for the wiring phase.
4 Prep the K-series engine and fit the rear mount
Strip the K20A of everything the swap does not use, including surplus factory brackets, the power-steering pump, and the air-conditioning compressor, so it clears the bay and mounts cleanly. Bolt the conversion kit's rear mounting bracket to the subframe so it is ready to receive the engine's rear transmission mount during the drop.
5 Lower the engine in and set the mounts
Set the two matching 1/2 inch spacers (supplied) at the rear transmission bracket where it stands off near the crossmember (this is the rear location, not the driver-side transmission mount). Lower the engine into the bay on the hoist and line the rear transmission mount up with the subframe bracket, securing it. Adjust hoist height as needed and install the timing-chain-side mount at the passenger-side tow-hook location. Fit the driver-side transmission bracket, then start both the small and large timing-chain-side mounts loosely. On the driver-side bracket each bolt point sits at a slightly different height: use the supplied spacers to take up those gaps, placing both spacers only in the two holes nearest each other while the far hole bolts directly to the transmission with no spacer. Start the small timing-chain-side mount as well. With everything finger-tight and the engine hanging square, cross-tighten all mount fasteners to final torque.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Leave every mount fastener finger-tight until the engine is aligned, then cross-tighten so no single mount is loaded before the others.
- 💡 This is documented as Part 1 (mounting and fitment); wiring, cooling hookup, and axles follow in later stages, so plan the project in phases.
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