Honda Fit HID Projector Retrofit Using Infiniti FX35 Bi-Xenon Projectors

Source a pair of Infiniti FX35 bi-xenon projectors together with a matching D2S HID kit (bulbs and ballasts); an OEM FX35 set or an aftermarket kit both work, and complete retrofit packages are sold by vendors such as The Retrofit Source. Collect the mounting hardware: six 2" machine screws whose thread matches the projector's factory clamp screws, plus twelve each of 7mm nuts, flat washers, and lock or nylon washers. For each shroud, pick up the smallest stainless steel non-tip pet bowl (roughly 5" across) from a pet store. Also have semi-gloss black spray paint, 1500 grit sandpaper, weatherstrip, and a bi-xenon wiring harness ready before starting.

Separate the lens from the housing so the internal reflector bowls are exposed. The Fit headlight is sealed with a heat-softened adhesive bead; warm the seam evenly with a heat gun until the adhesive releases, then unclip and lift the lens away. With the housing open, this is also the convenient moment to paint the interior of the housing or tint the amber signal and clear running-light covers, since every surface is accessible. Keep the clips and screws organized for reassembly.

Split each FX35 projector into its front and rear halves. The rear section carries the tabs that located the projector inside the original Infiniti headlight; those tabs are not needed here and must be cut away so the projector will seat down into the Fit's reflector bowl. Compare a stock projector against a trimmed one to confirm exactly which tabs and edges to remove. Then swap three of the screws that clamp the projector halves together for three of the 2" screws, which will later pass through the reflector bowl and serve as mounting studs.

Transfer the projector's three screw positions onto the rear face of the reflector bowl. The accurate method is to trace the projector outline and hole pattern onto the bowl; a faster but rougher method is to rest the projector (now fitted with its 2" screws) in the bowl and mark where the screws contact it. Cut the central opening for the projector body using a dremel with a cutting disk, and open the three screw holes using the dremel's multi-purpose cutting bit. The center hole may be made slightly undersized for a snug fit, but protect the three screw-hole locations, since losing them destroys the mount. Careful marking here leaves the projector nearly centered.

Lightly scuff the reflector surface with 1500 grit sandpaper and clean it thoroughly so the paint will adhere. Coat the bowl in the color of your choice; semi-gloss black is a common pick for a subtle, blacked-out look. Allow roughly 10 hours of cure time before handling. Painting the bowl also suppresses stray reflections around the projector. Anyone who prefers to leave the reflector chrome must instead seal the projector completely against light leaks to prevent unwanted reflections.

Pass each 2" screw through its hole fitted with a flat washer, then a lock or nylon washer, and thread a 7mm nut on from behind the bowl. Nylon washers give a tidier result than lock washers. To gain working room behind the bowl, back the headlight adjuster out with a 10mm socket; if access is still tight, release the round retaining clip by squeezing it and popping the bowl loose. Snug the three nuts evenly. The projector is seated correctly when its rear barrel appears centered in the opening at the back of the housing, though final centering comes during aiming.

Install the D2S bulbs and their ballasts, then connect a bi-xenon harness so the projector's solenoid lifts the cutoff shield for high beam. A store-bought plug-and-play harness or a self-built one both work; a connector must be made up for the projector shield leads to drive the high beams. The single yellow lead exiting the rear of the projector is not required for this setup and can simply be cut off. Route and secure the wiring, keeping the ballasts away from heat and moisture.

Drill a 3" opening in the base of the roughly 5" pet bowl so it clears the projector lens, then paint it to match the build; semi-gloss black is typical. The smallest bowl size drops inside the reflector bowl with no further trimming. Discard the bowl's rubber lip strip. This low-cost shroud stands in for purpose-made units such as Apollo or FX-R shrouds if you prefer a ready-made part.

The shroud is decorative and goes in last, seated inside the housing over the projector to hide the lens edge and mounting hardware. One method presses the bowl up under a strip of weatherstrip run around the inside of the lens holder, which also conceals the cut edge; another bonds the shroud directly to the projector with JB Weld. The shroud does not need to seal against moisture, because the OEM lens handles sealing once the housing is closed.

Reseal the lens to the housing (the reverse of opening it) and refit the headlight to the car. Park about 20 ft from a flat wall and level the beams, adjusting so the sharp horizontal cutoff line sits at the correct height; the lower 2" mounting screw has the greatest effect on aim. Set the beams low enough that the cutoff does not throw glare at oncoming drivers, then tighten the screws down firmly. A crisp cutoff with no upward glare confirms a successful retrofit.