Electrical Moderate Verified Guide

Honda Fit (GE8) Gentex GENK41A Auto-Dimming Homelink Mirror Installation

1-2 hours 5 views ratedz via FitFreak (adapted)

Introduction

This guide covers replacing the factory rearview mirror in the second-generation Honda Fit (GE8, 2009 onward) with a Gentex GENK41A auto-dimming mirror that adds integrated Homelink transmitters. The result is an OEM-looking mirror that automatically dims to cut headlight glare from vehicles behind you and lets you operate up to three RF devices such as garage doors and gates. The GE8 uses a wedge-style mirror mount, so the Gentex unit slides directly onto the factory base with no adapter or camlock kit required. The work involves removing the stock mirror, mounting the new one, routing a slim wiring harness to the driver-side fuse box, and tapping a constant power source, a switched (ignition) source, and ground. Plan for roughly one to two hours; the supplied self-tapping connectors are the fiddliest part of the job. Adapted from a community writeup by ratedz on FitFreak (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-diy-repair-maintenance/40480-diy-install-gentex-genk41a-auto-dimming-mirror-homelink.html), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.

Tools Required

  • Flathead screwdriver wrapped in a soft cloth or tape, or a plastic trim/panel removal tool
  • Multimeter or test light to confirm the switched power wire
  • Supplied blue 14-18 AWG self-tapping wire taps
  • Small wrench or socket for the ground bolt

Parts Required

  • Gentex GENK41A auto-dimming rearview mirror kit with Homelink
  • Blue 14-18 AWG self-tapping wire taps (included with the mirror kit)
  • Optional wire cover / channel accessory to conceal the harness run
  • Replacement A-pillar trim clip from Honda (only if you choose to remove the A-pillar trim)

Safety Warnings

  • The A-pillar trim conceals an SRS airbag. If you choose to remove the trim to route wiring, work carefully around the airbag and replace the clip that breaks on removal.
  • The purple (switched) wire shares the right rear power window circuit, so it stays live for a short time after shutdown until a door is opened; the mirror's status light staying on briefly after key-off is normal.
  • Do not tap constant power at the map lights as a shortcut; that circuit can drain the battery if the car sits unused for a long period.
  • Keep the mirror's forward-facing light sensor clear. Mounting a toll transponder in front of it can block the sensor and prevent proper dimming.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1 Remove the factory rearview mirror

Start at the small notch on the underside of the plastic base cover that sits against the windshield. Slip a taped flathead screwdriver or a trim tool into that notch and work around to release the plastic tab on each side; both pop free with a gentle pull. Slide the freed cover toward the mirror to clear it, then lift the mirror body upward to slide it off the wedge mount.

2 Fit the Gentex mirror to the wedge mount

Seat the new mirror on the exposed wedge mount, sliding it down from the top, which is the reverse of how the original came off. On GE8 Fits the wedge mount is already present, so no adapter or camlock kit is needed and the mirror clicks straight on. Then plug the wiring harness into the connector on the back of the mirror.

3 Route the harness across the headliner

If you have the optional wire cover, snap it into the top of the mirror base first; it hooks onto the headliner and conceals the exposed run up to the roof. Tuck the harness beneath the leading edge of the headliner and follow it across to the A-pillar on the driver side, using a trim tool to ease the wire under the trim as you go.

4 Bring the wiring down to the dash

You have two options. Either pull the A-pillar trim and pass the wire behind the airbag, noting that this breaks a retaining clip that must be replaced with a new one from Honda, or simply tuck the wire along the seam where the headliner meets the A-pillar without removing any panels. Peel back the rubber door weatherstrip from the top of the A-pillar down to the kick panel, lay the wire under it, and feed it behind the dash through the gap between the kick panel and the lower dash trim.

5 Locate and tap the power wires at the fuse box

Move over to the driver-side fuse panel, which sits just left of the steering column. The mirror has three leads: a solid black constant-power wire, a black wire with a white stripe for switched (ignition) power, and a ground. In the fuse box's second row from the bottom you will see three green panels in a line; the pink wire feeding the top row from the third panel (counting from the left) is your constant 12V source. In the center green panel, the purple wire at the far right of the top row is switched power. Clamp one supplied blue 14-18 AWG tap onto the pink wire and another onto the purple wire.

6 Make the wire connections

Insert the spade terminal on the solid black lead into the open folded end of the tap on the pink wire, and the spade on the black-and-white lead into the tap on the purple wire. Close each tap firmly so the metal blade bites through the insulation and makes contact.

7 Ground the mirror

Attach the mirror's ground lead to bare chassis metal. An existing bolt near the fuse box works well. Scrape away any paint or coating at the contact point so the connection is clean and tight.

8 Test, program, and reassemble

Before buttoning up, turn on the car and confirm the mirror powers up and dims. The two right-hand buttons toggle the auto-dimming feature on and off; if the green status LED is dark at startup, press the power button. Program the three left-hand Homelink buttons to your garage door, gate, or other RF device following the manufacturer's instructions. Once everything checks out, dress the wiring, press the weatherstrip and any loosened trim back into place, and reinstall the mirror base cover.

Pro Tips

  • 💡 The blue self-tapping connectors are fiddly and consume most of the install time; seat each one slowly and fully.
  • 💡 When probing for the switched power wire with a voltmeter, turn the ignition key to position III rather than II or the wire will read dead.
  • 💡 GE8 Fits (2009 and later) already have the wedge mount, so the camlock adapter kit some sellers push is not required.
  • 💡 The optional snap-in wire channel that clips into the mirror base gives a much cleaner run up to the headliner and is worth having.
  • 💡 The two right-hand buttons are the auto-dim on/off control; the three left buttons are the programmable Homelink transmitters.

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