Honda Fit (GD) Stainless Clutch Line and Delay-Valve Delete
Introduction
This guide covers replacing the factory hydraulic clutch line on the manual-transmission Honda Fit (GD chassis, also badged Jazz) with a -3AN braided stainless hose. Because the new hose runs straight from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder, it deletes the factory clutch delay valve (CDV) in the process. The CDV deliberately slows how quickly hydraulic pressure reaches the slave cylinder, which produces a soft, laggy engagement that is most noticeable pulling away in first gear. Removing it gives a crisper, more direct pedal and lets you feel the exact bite point for smoother launches and quicker shifts, while the rigid braided line further sharpens response. Note that this modification does not cure clutch shudder, which comes from the pressure plate and friction material rather than the hydraulics. Budget roughly 45 to 75 dollars for parts; the 12mm master-cylinder adapter is the hardest piece to source, so confirm it is an inverted flare before ordering. Adapted from a community writeup by apexanimal on FitFreak (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-diy-repair-maintenance/56664-diy-gd-clutch-hardline.html), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension
- 12mm socket
- Deep 10mm socket (for the battery tray)
- Flare nut wrench (to avoid rounding off the tube fittings)
- 8mm wrench for the slave-cylinder bleeder
- Clutch bleeding kit (clear hose and catch bottle) or a helper
- Latex or nitrile gloves
- Shop towels
- Zip ties
Parts Required
-
Aeroquip -3AN PTFE/stainless braided clutch hose, straight end to 90-degree end (FBPA0039 series; 16 to 24 inch lengths all work, e.g. FBPA0039-16, FBPA0039-24, FBPA0039-48)
-
-3AN 90-degree coupler (Earl's 966303ERL)
-
-3AN to 10mm x 1.0 inverted-flare adapter (Russell 641431 two-pack, single 641411, or Earl's 989537ERL)
-
-3AN to 12mm x 1.0 inverted-flare adapter (Earl's 592053ERL Uniflare recommended; note the Goodridge 305-03M121P is a bubble flare, not an inverted flare)
-
DOT 3 brake fluid (Honda fluid or Castrol LMA)
-
Zip ties
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Brake fluid strips paint. Keep towels under every fitting you open and rinse any spills off painted surfaces immediately.
- ⚠ Do not drive until the clutch is fully bled and confirmed leak-free. Air in the line or a weeping fitting can cause the clutch to fail to disengage.
- ⚠ Deleting the CDV changes engagement timing but does not fix clutch shudder; that is a pressure-plate and friction-material problem and needs a clutch job to address.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Clear access to the clutch hydraulics
Remove the air intake, held by two 10mm bolts. Then take out the battery hold-down, the battery, and the battery tray. The tray is secured by two deep 10mm bolts and three 12mm bolts. With those out of the way, gently move as much of the wiring harness near the driver-side strut tower aside as you can so you have clear reach to the master cylinder and the line routing.
2 Unbolt the clutch delay valve from the frame rail
Locate the CDV mounted to the frame rail and remove the two 12mm bolts that hold it in place. Freeing it now makes the old line easier to pull out later once both ends are disconnected.
3 Disconnect the line at the master cylinder
Remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap. Lay several shop towels beneath the clutch master cylinder to catch the fluid that will drain. Using a flare nut wrench, back off the 12mm fitting that joins the factory line to the master-cylinder adapter and separate it. A flare nut wrench is important here; an open-end wrench tends to round these fittings off.
4 Install the master-cylinder adapter and 90-degree coupler
Thread the -3AN to 12mm adapter onto the master-cylinder adapter. If access is tight, you can instead pull the retaining clip and remove the whole clutch adapter to work on the bench. Then thread the -3AN 90-degree coupler onto it. Orientation of the coupler is not critical, since the master-cylinder adapter itself can be swiveled to point the hose the way you want.
5 Disconnect the line at the slave cylinder
Take out the single 10mm bolt that secures the intermediate clutch line bracket. At the slave cylinder on the bell housing, remove the passenger-side 12mm bolt and loosen the driver-side one so the cylinder can rotate slightly for access. Place towels underneath, then remove the 10mm fitting from the slave-cylinder adapter and pull the complete factory line and CDV assembly out of the car.
6 Fit the slave adapter and attach the 90-degree hose end
Thread the -3AN to 10mm adapter onto the slave-cylinder adapter. Connect the 90-degree end of the stainless hose to it. Reinstall the passenger-side 12mm slave bolt and tighten both slave-cylinder bolts back down.
7 Route the stainless line and connect the master-cylinder end
Run the hose through the engine bay, keeping it clear of anything that moves, gets hot, or vibrates heavily. Connect the straight end of the hose to the coupler on the master-cylinder adapter. Secure the hose with zip ties along the run so it cannot chafe or flap.
8 Bleed the clutch and check for leaks
Top off the reservoir with DOT 3 fluid. Bleed the system at the slave cylinder's forward-facing bleeder, which takes an 8mm wrench, keeping the reservoir topped up until the pedal feels firm and no air escapes. Wipe everything dry and inspect every fitting, at both cylinders and along the hose, for weeping before you drive the car. Reinstall the battery tray, battery, and intake.
Pro Tips
- 💡 The 10mm adapter is commonly sold only in a two-pack, though you need just one. Look for a single-piece listing, or split the pack with another owner doing the same job.
- 💡 Short hoses are plenty. Owners confirm 16, 18, and 20 inch lengths all reach; a 48 inch hose leaves a lot of slack to tie up.
- 💡 If the new line buzzes or rattles at certain engine speeds (often around 3,000 to 4,000 rpm), it is contacting a hard line. Reposition it and add zip ties, or sleeve it with a length of slit vacuum hose.
- 💡 The 12mm master-cylinder adapter is the hardest part to find. It must be an inverted flare. If you can only get a bubble-flare fitting, you can pull the brass inverted nipple insert out of the master-cylinder adapter so the bubble flare seats and seals.
- 💡 A worthwhile free follow-up is adjusting the clutch pedal to remove the excess free play at the bottom of the stroke (rule of thumb around 1/2 inch). Adjust both the pedal up-stop switch and the master-cylinder pushrod, then start the car and verify a little play remains before the clutch begins to grab.
Was this guide helpful?
