Honda CR-Z Projector Headlight Blackout and Amber Reflector Delete

Take off the front bumper to gain access; a separate bumper-removal writeup covers this in detail. Each headlight is retained by three bolts. Unbolt both assemblies, disconnect their electrical connectors, and set them on a padded bench. Detach the harness mounted on the bumper as well, held by two screws.

With a headlight on the bench, remove the six screws that clamp the clear lens to the rear housing. These fasteners alone will not free the lens; the perimeter is also bonded with factory butyl sealant, which is released in the next step.

Warm the seam between the lens and housing with a heat gun to soften the butyl adhesive, then gently pry the lens away. Begin at the wide end of the light rather than the narrow tip, and work around the perimeter as the glue loosens. Do not bake the assembly in an oven: the internal metal brackets and the HID igniter make oven heat a poor choice for this particular headlight.

Once the lens is off, detach the chrome outline trim from the clear lens side. Then remove the orange turn-signal reflector, which is what gives the corner its amber tint. Deleting it is the core of the 'clear' look.

Unscrew the chrome turn-signal section, held by two screws. Remove the HID box, secured by three screws, and unplug every bulb and connector so the internals can come out freely.

Remove the two large screws at the rear of the housing and lift off the small cover over one of them. Then work the combined HID shroud and DRL assembly off its mount inside the housing. This is the hardest and most patience-testing part of the job, so take your time to avoid cracking the plastic.

With the module out, separate its sub-parts so each chrome surface can be painted. Unscrew the DRL from its metal support (three screws), unscrew the HID projector from the support (two screws), and pop the black piece that bridges to the DRL section free. Finally, detach the plastic shroud from the HID projector.

Refinish the parts you want de-chromed: the turn-signal chrome section, the chrome ring around the HID projector, and the chrome lens outline. Mask off any areas to keep, such as the small blue accent behind the projector, then prime and apply gloss topcoats. Krylon paint has held up well through years of high-heat use. The lens outline in particular can be color-matched to the car instead of blacked out. This is also a convenient time to refinish the H emblem or fit different-colored fog bulbs.

Allow every painted piece to dry fully before handling. Reassemble the projector, DRL, and turn-signal modules, then remount the metal bracket carrying the HID and DRL onto the two long screws. Connect the HID wiring before tightening the main clamps, since access is far easier beforehand. Confirm the projector and DRL mounts sit straight, as a crooked mount is difficult to correct once buttoned up and will throw off aim.

Reheat the black factory glue along the housing seam and press the lens back into place. Then run a clear flowable windshield silicone all the way around the joint to fill the gap and lock out water; a heat-resistant silicone spread around the edge works as well. Thorough sealing here is what prevents the fogging that ruins a first attempt.

Refit the six perimeter screws, then mount the headlight back on the car. Align the mounting screws carefully during install, seating the recessed screw in the deep pocket first so the rest line up. Reconnect the harness, reinstall the bumper, and verify that low beams, DRLs, and turn signals all operate before considering the job finished.