Acura RSX Headlight Blackout: Oven-Bake, Separate, and Paint the Internals

Take off the front bumper cover to gain clear access, then unbolt and lift out both headlight units. The fasteners are 10mm, so the ratchet with a 6-inch extension reaches them easily. Consult the factory service manual for the exact bumper and headlight fastener locations on your car, since trim clips vary. Work the assemblies free without straining the wiring, and disconnect the bulb connectors before setting each unit on the bench.

Before any heat is applied, pull off every bulb, gasket, rubber cap, and clip-on plastic component that could warp or melt in the oven. Only the bonded lens-and-housing shell should go in. Bag the removed parts together so nothing is lost during reassembly.

Drop the oven rack to its lowest position and dry-fit the headlight on the tray to confirm there is roughly two to three inches of clearance on every side; too close to the elements and the shell will scorch. Once the fit is confirmed, preheat to 315 degrees F and let it fully stabilize before baking anything.

Set one headlight lens-up on the cookie sheet and slide it onto the low rack. Close the door and run it for 5 minutes. Resist the urge to open the oven early to check on it. The goal is only to warm the seal enough to release its grip, not to cook the plastic.

Pull the hot assembly out and immediately begin unhooking the perimeter retaining tabs with a flathead. The plastic is very soft at this point, so handle it gently, since any flex you introduce sets permanently as it cools. After every tab is released, work the lens away from the housing all the way around. You have only about 5 minutes before the sealant firms up again, so move steadily; if it re-hardens before you finish, simply reheat and continue. Wear gloves, the parts are genuinely hot.

With the halves apart, back out the single screw holding the turn-signal housing and lift it out carefully; a small locating tab here breaks easily. Then remove the lone screw securing the silver reflector insert and free it without cracking its tabs. These loose internal pieces are what you will actually paint.

Scrub every piece with hot water and dish soap to strip oils, then dry fully. Mask off any surface that must stay unpainted, such as the amber turn-signal window, using blue painter's tape. Deciding how much of the honeycomb or clear sections to cover is where you set the final look, so plan the pattern before laying tape.

Lightly abrade all surfaces that will receive paint with 000 steel wool, paying extra attention to tight creases and corners where coatings tend to lift. Then wipe away the resulting dust with a light pass of solvent. Do not scrub with acetone; a heavy hand attacks the plastic. A gentle wipe is all that is needed.

Move the pieces outside onto cardboard and lay down a coat of plastic-specific primer. Follow the can's flash and recoat guidance, and let the primer cure completely before moving on, since trapped solvent under the topcoat causes wrinkling.

Once the primer is dry, build up the black in several light passes rather than one heavy coat, again respecting the can's dry times. A clear coat afterward is optional; it adds gloss and can help hide a scuffed or scratched lens. Let everything harden thoroughly before handling.

Reinstall the painted reflector and turn-signal pieces with their screws, taking care not to scratch the fresh finish, then reverse the disassembly to marry the lens back to the housing. Warm the reassembled unit again so the softened sealant grips and the tabs seat fully; a second bake is often needed for a watertight bond. Reassembly is noticeably fiddlier than teardown, so expect it to take longer than you think.

Refit both finished headlights, reconnect the bulb connectors, and reinstall the front bumper. Confirm the lights aim and function correctly before final tightening.