Honda S2000 SPC Adjustable Upper Ball Joint (Camber Kit) Installation

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Time 3-4 hours

Level Difficult

Steps 12

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Caution

SPC states this ball joint is only for cars on 17in or larger wheels; check clearance before buying.
The alignment will be grossly out after installation, especially toe. Do not drive at speed until aligned.
Never let the caliper hang on the brake hose.
Always fit new cotter pins.

Introduction

SPC's 67220 replaces the S2000's pressed-in upper ball joint with a slotted plate and an offset joint that slides in or out to change camber. SPC rates it at plus or minus 1.5 degrees, and the writeup's author says it gives about 2 degrees (he gained 2.2 degrees of extra negative camber). It is popular for track cars that have run out of factory camber. The part fits front or rear, but SPC says it is only for cars on 17 in or larger wheels (the writeup applies that limit to rear installs). Expect the alignment to be far out after installation, especially toe. Adapted from a community writeup by Rob Robinette on robrobinette.com (https://robrobinette.com/S2000BallJoint.htm).

Procedure

12 steps

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

Lift the car, support it on jack stands and remove the wheel.
Step 2: Free the brake line and ABS bracket

Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the ABS line and brake hose bracket so the knuckle can move without stretching anything.
Step 3: Hang the caliper

Remove the two 17mm caliper bolts and hang the caliper from the upper arm with safety wire. Never let it hang by the hose.
Step 4: Remove the castle nut

Pull the retaining clip or cotter pin, then remove the upper ball joint castle nut with a 17mm socket and breaker bar. Thread a spare nut onto the stud to protect the threads.
Step 5: Separate the ball joint

Use the separator to pop the upper ball joint out of the knuckle.
Step 6: Remove the old joint

Remove the boot retaining wire and boot, then use the ball joint press to push the stock joint out of the upper arm.
Step 7: Press in the SPC lower plate

Press the SPC bottom plate into the arm. Orientation matters: the slot should point straight away from the car. Angling the slot toward the rear adds caster; toward the front reduces it (the writeup angled it about 40 degrees rearward for more caster).
Step 8: Fit the adjustable joint

Insert the SPC joint through the slot with the offset bolt toward you. Grind a little material off if the joint cannot slide fully inward. Fit the top plate, washer and nut with the bevelled edge down.
Step 9: Set and torque the joint

For the drive to the alignment shop, the writeup recommends pulling the joint fully outward, which gives roughly stock camber, because pushing it inward for more negative camber adds a lot of toe-out. Snug the big top nut but do not torque it yet.
Step 10: Reconnect to the knuckle

Put the stud into the knuckle, torque the new castle nut to 36-43 lb-ft and fit a new cotter pin. Then torque the joint's top nut to 120 lb-ft, taking care not to round off the thin nut. Your alignment shop will need this figure when they reset it.
Step 11: Reassemble brakes

Refit the rotor (screws 7.2 lb-ft in the writeup), the caliper and the brake/ABS brackets (10mm, 7.2 lb-ft). For the 17mm caliper bracket bolts the writeup gives 83.2 lb-ft, but Energy Suspension's S2000 sheet lists 79.6 lb-ft for the same bolts, so use the factory service manual value. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm before the car moves.
Step 12: Wheel on and align

Fit the wheel, torque the lug nuts to 80 lb-ft and lower the car. Get an alignment right away. In the writeup, setting the joints for more camber took the car from -1 degree to -3.2 degrees of camber, and total toe went from zero to 1.48 toe-out.

Tips

Do both sides on an axle in one session so you can match them.
A Honda-specific press adapter set makes pushing the old joint out of the S2000 arm much easier.

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