Honda Fit (GE8) C-Pillar Brace Bar Installation

Unpack the brace and identify the center bar with a threaded rod end (end link) screwed into each end, plus a large adjuster nut riding on each threaded section. No new bolts are supplied; the kit clamps onto the seat belt anchor bolts already in the car, so no additional fasteners are needed. Set your two open-end wrenches, the socket and extension, and the ratchet within reach before starting.

Each upper seat belt anchor is capped by a two-piece plastic cover. Work the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into the seam where the halves meet and twist gently until the cover snaps free. Keep your face clear while doing this: a released cover can spring off with some force. Repeat for both anchors so the mounting bolts are exposed.

Pick one side to start. Using the 14mm socket, extension, and ratchet, back out the bolt that secures that seat belt anchor and lift it out. As it comes free, capture the flat washer and the small plastic disc that sits above it to hold the washer in place during assembly; note exactly how they were stacked, because they go back in the same order later. Leave the lock washer on the bolt, as it is permanently fitted.

To keep the bar from fighting you while you thread the first bolt, unscrew the end link on your starting side from the center bar so you can handle it on its own. This lets you build up the bolt stack and start it into the anchor without maneuvering the full assembly at the same time.

Slide the anchor bolt through the end link eye and then through the seat belt anchor, keeping the lock washer on the outside. Return the flat washer to its original position and set the plastic disc above it so the washer cannot slip off. Guide the anchor back onto its locating tab (a slot beside the threaded hole engages a metal tab), hold it up in place, and hand-start the bolt using only the socket and extension. Run it in about halfway so it cannot fall out, taking care not to cross-thread, then snug it with the ratchet to hand-tight only. Do not fully tighten yet: the end link must still be free to swivel so you can reach the opposite side.

Remove the bolt and hardware from the second seat belt anchor the same way you did the first, saving its washer and plastic disc. Thread the center bar fully back onto the end link you already mounted. Then use the threaded sections at both ends to lengthen or shorten the bar so the second end link can reach its anchor hole; aim to keep the adjustment roughly centered between the two ends.

Build the same bolt stack on this side, lock washer outboard, flat washer and plastic disc restored in their original order. Line the end link up with the anchor, seat the anchor on its tab, and hand-start the bolt with the socket and extension. Bring it to hand-tight with the ratchet, again being careful not to cross-thread.

Each end link pivot has a 14mm nut on one face and a 14mm bolt head on the other. Hold the nut still with the 14mm open-end wrench while you drive the bolt head with the ratchet, tightening until the joint barely moves. Firm it up well but stop short of snapping the head. Do this at both end links.

A large nut rides on the threaded portion at each end of the bar. Run each nut inward toward the center until it seats against the end link and can no longer be turned by hand, then bring it up firm with the 24mm open-end wrench. These jam nuts lock the length adjustment so the bar cannot loosen or rattle.

Go back over every fastener: the two anchor bolts, both end link pivots, and both 24mm jam nuts should all be secure. Confirm the bar does not shake or rattle when pushed. A small amount of flex when you pull on it is normal because the bar is aluminum. Because the two anchor bolts also retain the seat belt anchors, make sure each is fully seated and tight before returning the car to use.