Honda Civic Si (EP3) / Acura RSX Front Brake Pad Replacement

Gather the replacement pad set before touching the car. The original author used Hawk HPS pads, but any quality front set for the platform works. For the best bite and even seating, have the rotors resurfaced, or at minimum scuff the friction surface lightly with sandpaper so the fresh pads bed cleanly. Keep all lubricants away from the rotor faces and pad friction material throughout the job.

With the car still on the ground and the parking brake set, crack each front lug nut loose about a quarter turn using the 19mm socket and breaker bar. Leave them snug, not removed. Chock the rear wheels with blocks so the car cannot roll once it is raised.

Position the jack under the front lifting point on the subframe, just behind the molded plastic pointer that marks it, and raise the car to a comfortable working height. Move a jack stand under the pinch-weld seam on each side; the reinforced seam sticks out slightly from the surrounding metal. Lower the car onto the stands. Never rely on the jack alone to hold the vehicle while you work under it.

Spin off the loosened lug nuts, pull the wheel, and set it aside with its nuts so nothing is lost. Turn the steering fully toward the outside of the corner you are servicing: hard right exposes the left front caliper, hard left exposes the right front. This swings the caliper outward for easier tool access.

Locate the 12mm caliper bolt on the back of the caliper; it threads toward you into a guide sleeve. Fit the 12mm socket, adapter, and ratchet on the bolt head. Hold the flat guide-pin boss steady with the 19mm combination wrench while you loosen the bolt, otherwise the pin spins freely and the bolt will not back out. Remove the bolt completely.

With the lower bolt out, pivot the caliper body upward on its top pin to expose the pads and piston. Slide both old pads out by hand. Inspect them: uneven wear side to side points to a sticking or misinstalled pad. Check the piston and its rubber dust boot for any sign of fluid weeping. A leaking caliper must be rebuilt or replaced before continuing, not ignored.

Lay a spare old pad flat against the piston face to spread the load evenly, then bridge the large C-clamp between that pad and the rear of the caliper body. Tighten the clamp slowly to drive the piston in far enough to clear the thicker new pads. Do not force it in past that point. Watch the brake fluid level in the reservoir, as pushing the piston back raises it.

Apply brake grease generously to the steel pad-retainer clips where the new pads slide in, so they seat and move freely without binding. Apply CRC Disc Brake Quiet to the metal shims on the backs of the new pads to prevent squeal. Keep both products off the friction faces and off the rotor.

Set the inboard and outboard pads into position, matching each to its correct location and orientation; use the opposite corner as a reference if unsure. Push the pads toward the rotor, pivot the caliper body back down over them, and thread the 12mm bolt back in. Torque it to 25 ft-lb with the torque wrench, adapter, and 12mm socket.

Mount the wheel, run the lug nuts on, and torque them to 80 ft-lb. Repeat the entire procedure on the opposite front corner. Before moving the car, pump the brake pedal five or so times with the parking brake set until it goes firm, which seats the pistons against the new pads. Then bed the pads per the pad manufacturer's break-in procedure. Braking will be weak until the pads are broken in and warmed, so drive gently at first.