Acura 1G TL (2.5) Engine Mount Replacement
Introduction
This guide covers removing and replacing the hydraulic engine mounts on the first-generation Acura 2.5 TL inline-five. Failed mounts allow excess engine movement, which typically shows up as a clunk when selecting a gear and as rough or harsh shifting. The passenger-side and driver-side jobs are broadly similar, with one important difference: the driver-side mount will not clear the frame with the axle in place, so that side also requires pulling the axle, draining the differential, and fitting a fresh axle set ring. Before buying mounts, confirm the mounts are actually the fault, since braking and steering-wheel vibration on these cars is frequently caused by worn axles rather than the mounts. Adapted from a community writeup by pi1996 on AcuraZine (https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-problems-fixes-118/diy-engine-mount-589802/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Floor jack and jack stands
- Second jack plus a wood block to cradle and support the engine
- 17mm socket or wrench (top mount nut)
- 14mm socket or wrench (mount-to-frame bolts)
- 10mm socket or wrench (splash guard bolts)
- Flexible or swivel extension / snake socket for the bracket bolts
- Torque wrench
- Lug wrench
- Drain pan (driver side only)
Parts Required
-
Replacement engine mount (per side)
-
New axle set ring (driver side, required when the axle is pulled)
-
Differential fluid (driver side, if the diff is drained)
-
Replacement vacuum hoses (optional)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Support the car on jack stands, never on a jack alone, before working underneath it.
- ⚠ The engine jack is there to carry the engine's weight only. Lifting too far can strain lines, hoses, or the remaining mounts.
- ⚠ The driver-side job opens the differential; drain it into a pan and refill with the correct fluid, and always fit a new axle set ring after pulling the axle.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Raise the car and remove the wheel
Chock the wheels, break the lug nuts loose, then raise the car and set it securely on jack stands. Remove the road wheel on the side you are servicing so you have working access to the mount from the wheel well.
2 Release the top mount nut
Open the hood and locate the single fastener that joins the mount to its upper bracket. Remove that one 17mm nut. There is only one of these per mount.
3 Cradle and slightly lift the engine
Position a jack under a broad, flat surface such as the differential, using a wood block to spread the load and protect the casting. The goal is only to carry the engine's weight and raise it roughly a third of an inch, just enough to unload the mounts. Do not try to lift the engine out of its mounts.
4 Remove the splash guard and free the vacuum lines
Behind the wheel, take out the three 10mm bolts holding the mud/splash guard and set the guard aside. While you are in there, disconnect the vacuum hoses that run to the mount-assembly solenoid. Mark or tag each hose before pulling it, because these lines are easy to reconnect crossed.
5 Unbolt the mount from the frame
Using a 14mm socket, remove the four bolts that fasten the mount to the frame. With these out, the mount can move freely enough to open up access to the bracket behind it.
6 Detach the bracket from the engine
Rock and rotate the loosened mount to reach the three bolts securing the bracket to the engine, then remove them. The front/lowest bolt can be reached from above or from below, but the rear inner bolt is awkward, so a flexible or snake-style socket extension makes it far easier.
7 Work the mount out of the frame
Twist the mount and drop it downward toward the engine rather than trying to pull it outward toward the fender, which is the direction that actually clears the frame. The passenger-side mount will come out along the inside of the frame after some wiggling. On the driver side it will not clear until the axle is removed, so pull that axle, drain the differential fluid first, and plan to install a new axle set ring on reassembly.
8 Set the new mount and bracket in place
Position the new mount and bracket together. Start the three bracket bolts by hand but leave them loose. Install and fully tighten the four 14mm mount-to-frame bolts first, then go back and finish tightening the bracket bolts. This order lets everything self-align before anything is locked down.
9 Lower the engine and verify pin alignment
Lower the engine back onto the mount. Confirm the bracket seats flush against the top of the mount with no gap between them. A visible gap means the locating pins did not engage and the assembly must be reset before continuing.
10 Reassemble and set final torque
Reconnect the vacuum hoses in their correct positions, refit the axle set ring and refill the differential if you drained it, then reinstall the splash guard and wheel and lower the car. Thread the 17mm top mount nuts on but leave them loose, run the engine for a couple of minutes so the mounts settle into their natural position, then torque the driver-side nut followed by the passenger-side nut to 54 lb-ft.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Tag the vacuum hoses before disconnecting them. Reconnecting them crossed produces lingering vibration and rough shifting even after the mounts are new.
- 💡 Diagnose before you buy. Vibration felt through the steering wheel under braking is often worn axles or CV joints rather than mounts; testing the axles first can save the whole job.
- 💡 Torn mount rubber, front and rear, is a common failure and usually explains a clunk when shifting into gear.
- 💡 A long flexible extension or snake socket is the single most useful tool for the hard-to-reach rear bracket bolt.
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