8th-Gen Honda Civic Sedan Trunk Damper Kit Installation
Introduction
This guide covers fitting a bolt-on trunk damper kit to an 8th-generation Honda Civic sedan, so the trunk rises in a controlled, assisted motion and holds itself open instead of relying on the factory torsion springs. The kit referenced here is the sedan-specific set from RoBear Racing made by FaVES; it is not compatible with the coupe body. The work is straightforward, roughly a half-hour job needing only hand tools, a drill, and the rivet-nut tool included in the kit. The one point of real care is sizing the lower mounting holes so the rivet-nut inserts clamp firmly rather than spin. Adapted from a community writeup by obert on 8th Civic (https://www.8thcivic.com/threads/diy-trunk-dampers.237832/).
Reference
Tools Required
- Small and medium flat-head screwdrivers
- Medium Phillips screwdriver
- Plastic trim/clip removal tool (only if the hinges have plastic covers)
- 14mm wrench
- 10mm wrench
- 1/4" ratchet with a deep 10mm socket
- Drill with a 23/64 drill bit
- Rivet-nut setting tool (supplied with the kit)
Parts Required
-
Sedan-specific trunk damper kit (RoBear Racing, made by FaVES), including two dampers, upper hinge brackets, ball studs, rivet-nut inserts, mounting hardware, and grease
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ This kit is sedan-specific and will not fit the coupe.
- ⚠ Do not oversize the drilled hole; an oversized hole prevents the rivet-nut insert from clamping, and it will not hold the damper.
- ⚠ Keep the trunk fully open while fitting and aligning the dampers so it cannot drop on you.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Open the trunk and expose the lower mounting point
Open the trunk fully. If your car has the plastic covers shielding the hinges, release them with a clip tool. Working one side at a time, ease the trunk-side molding away and tuck the liner clear so the lower mounting hole in the body is accessible. Begin on the driver side. Pop the existing plastic clip out of that hole with a flat-head screwdriver; it is discarded, not refitted.
2 Enlarge the lower hole for the rivet-nut insert
The rivet-nut insert will not seat in the factory hole as delivered, so open the hole up with a 23/64 bit. Drill only enough to admit the insert. An oversized hole lets the rivet nut spin instead of clamping, which means it will not hold the damper load. If 23/64 still leaves the hole loose on your particular car, step up only to the smallest size that just grips.
3 Set the rivet-nut insert
Thread a rivet-nut insert onto the supplied setting tool and push it into the drilled hole. Hold the tool body steady with the 14mm wrench while turning the tool's bolt with the 10mm wrench or the deep 10mm socket. This draws the insert upward and flares its back side against the sheet metal. Keep turning until it will no longer advance, confirming the insert is locked tight, then back the tool off and withdraw it.
4 Install the lower ball stud and repeat on the other side
Refit the molding and trunk liner over the area. Thread the lower ball stud (the pivot the damper socket clips onto) into the freshly set insert and snug it down with the 10mm wrench. Then repeat the exposing, drilling, insert-setting, and ball-stud steps on the passenger side.
5 Mount the upper hinge brackets
Move to the upper mounts. Slip each bracket over its trunk hinge arm. Pass the supplied bolt and nut through the upper hole, and the ball stud with its washer and nut through the lower hole. Leave both fasteners only finger-tight at this stage so the bracket can still shift for final alignment.
6 Prepare the dampers
Prep each damper before fitting. Work a little of the supplied grease into the socket ends to guard against rust and keep the action smooth, then pull out the small metal retaining clips at those sockets. The damper will not press onto the ball studs while those clips remain in place. If it makes the parts easier to handle, unscrew the end fittings and slide the foam sleeve off first.
7 Fit the dampers, align, and tighten
With the trunk held fully open, line up a damper and press its sockets onto the upper and lower ball studs. Because the upper bracket is still loose, nudge everything into the best alignment now. Once the damper is seated correctly, tighten all of the upper and lower fasteners. If a damper does not quite reach, or sits under tension, correct its length by threading the end fittings in or out. Fit the second damper the same way.
8 Refit the covers and test operation
Clip the plastic hinge covers back on if your car has them. Cycle the trunk several times to confirm the motion. It should rise and settle smoothly under damper assistance rather than flinging itself open when released from the key or the interior latch.
Pro Tips
- 💡 23/64 was the size that worked best here, but a slightly different bit may suit your holes better; aim for the smallest hole the insert grips in.
- 💡 Unscrewing the damper ends and sliding the foam sleeve off makes the dampers much easier to handle during fitting.
- 💡 Adjust damper length by threading the end fittings in or out if the unit does not line up between the two ball studs.
- 💡 Turn the rivet-nut setting tool until it fully stops to be sure each insert is clamped tight.
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