Honda Fit (GK) Throttle Pedal Spacer Installation
Introduction
The accelerator assembly in the third-generation (GK) Honda Fit bolts flat against the firewall, which leaves the pedal sitting low relative to the brake — roughly 3.5 cm lower on the installer's car. That height gap makes heel-and-toe downshifting awkward and forces an exaggerated ankle angle. The Acuity Instruments Throttle Pedal Spacer sits between the firewall and the accelerator unit and raises the pedal to one of three selectable positions (A, B, or C), each giving a slightly different feel. With the pedal closer to the brake, heel-toe rev-matching becomes noticeably easier and downshifts smoother. Plan on re-dialing your seat and steering-wheel position afterward, and expect to try each spacer position for a while before settling on one. This is a straightforward bolt-on that reuses the factory mounting hardware and takes under an hour. Adapted from a community writeup by nisco on FitFreak (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-gen-gk-specific-fit-interior-modifications-sub-forum/96845-diy-acuity-instruments-throttle-pedal-spacer-installation.html), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 3/8-inch drive M5 hex-bit socket (a T30 Torx bit works as a substitute)
- 3/8-inch drive 12mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet with two extensions
- 3/8-inch torque wrench
- 10mm wrench for the battery terminal
- Bright work light or headlamp
Parts Required
-
Acuity Instruments Throttle Pedal Spacer kit (spacer, hex bolts, and washers included)
-
Three factory throttle-assembly nuts (reused from the original mounting)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ The accelerator is a primary vehicle control. Confirm the pedal returns freely and nothing binds before the first drive.
- ⚠ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging the drive-by-wire connector to avoid setting throttle fault codes.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Disconnect the battery
Open the hood and loosen the negative battery cable with a 10mm wrench, then lift the terminal clear of the post so it cannot make contact. This cuts power from the drive-by-wire throttle circuit while the accelerator connector is unplugged and prevents throttle fault codes from being set.
2 Free the accelerator assembly from the firewall
Working in the driver's footwell with a strong light, fit a 12mm socket on the ratchet with both extensions to reach up behind the pedal. Back out the three nuts that clamp the accelerator unit to the firewall. Keep those three nuts together in a safe place — they are reused in a later step to secure the spacer.
3 Unplug the connector and remove the pedal
With all three nuts off, release the electrical connector clipped to the top of the accelerator unit. Then draw the whole assembly away from the firewall studs and out of the footwell so the mounting face is clear.
4 Bolt the spacer to the firewall
Seat the Acuity spacer over the three firewall studs and thread on the factory nuts you set aside. Start them by hand, then bring each to a final torque of 10 ft-lb using the torque wrench, 12mm socket, and extensions.
5 Mount the accelerator to the spacer
Attach the accelerator unit to the outer face of the spacer with the hex bolts and washers from the kit. Pick one of the three mounting locations stamped A, B, and C; position B is a reasonable starting point that you can change later. Torque the M5 hex bolts — or a T30 Torx if you do not have an M5 bit — to 10 ft-lb with the torque wrench and extensions.
6 Reconnect and verify operation
Reseat the electrical connector on top of the accelerator unit, then reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten the 10mm terminal. Restore the dashboard clock and any settings cleared by the disconnect. With the engine off, press the pedal through its full stroke and let it return to confirm smooth, unobstructed travel before driving.
Pro Tips
- 💡 The kit offers three pedal heights; try positions A, B, and C for a few days each to find the most natural heel-toe angle. The original installer settled on position C.
- 💡 Because the pedal moves closer, re-adjust your seat and steering-wheel position afterward — the whole driving posture changes with it.
- 💡 A T30 Torx bit is a workable stand-in for the M5 hex socket if you do not own one.
- 💡 The footwell is dark; a headlamp or drop light makes finding the studs and connector far easier.
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