Honda Civic Front Brake Disc and Pad Replacement

Chock the rear wheels and slacken the front lug nuts while the car is still on the ground. Raise the front of the vehicle and lower it securely onto axle stands, never relying on the jack alone. Take both front wheels off to expose the calipers and discs.

Each disc is held to the hub by two small countersunk screws that only locate it during assembly and carry no clamping load. They are notorious for seizing solid with corrosion. Use a tight-fitting impact driver, and if a screw resists, soak it in penetrating fluid over a day or apply heat before trying again. A screw that strips can be drilled out and left off, since the disc is ultimately clamped by the wheel.

Steady the caliper slide pin with a 17mm spanner and undo its guide bolt so the pin rubber boot is not twisted or torn, then repeat on the second bolt. Undo the bolt holding the brake hose bracket as well. On these cars the caliper bolts commonly take a 13mm spanner and the bleed valve a 7/16" spanner.

Decide how to handle the displaced fluid before compressing the piston. Simply forcing the piston back and letting fluid travel up to the master cylinder is quick, but members warned it can push contaminated fluid and dirt past the seals and damage them. The method preferred through the discussion is to fit a clamp on the flexible hose, open the bleed nipple, then press the piston home with a compressor or G-clamp so fluid escapes at the nipple; close the nipple before releasing the clamp. As a minimum, remove the reservoir cap and pack absorbent cloth around it to catch any overflow, then recheck the level afterward. Suspend the freed caliper on wire so it never dangles from the hose.

Undo the two mounting bolts that fix the caliper carrier to the hub and lift the bracket away. These are the fixings you will torque back up on reassembly, so keep them clean.

Tap the disc off with a rubber mallet or hammer, working evenly around its face. If rust has locked it on, thread a bolt into each of the two M8 x 1.25mm holes cast into the disc and tighten them a little at a time, alternating sides, to jack the disc off squarely. Penetrating fluid or heat around the hub helps a stubborn one. Do not over-tighten the push-off bolts, as excessive force strips the threads.

Wire-brush the hub mating face until it is bright and flat so the new disc seats true and runs without runout. Smear a light film of copper grease onto the hub spigot to stop future seizing, slide on the new disc, and drive the two retaining screws back in.

Position the carrier bracket back over the new disc and tighten its two mounting bolts evenly to 108 Nm with a torque wrench.

Apply a thin film of copper grease to the top and bottom locating edges of each pad and to the flat backing plate of the outer pad, keeping every trace well away from the friction surface. Do not do this with genuine Honda pads, which already carry a factory anti-noise layer and should be fitted dry. Clean the anti-rattle shim, grease it lightly, and seat it in the caliper body.

While the caliper is off, check that each slide pin moves freely in its bore; the boot should pull a pulled-out pin back on its own. If a pin drags at all, withdraw it, clean the pin and bore, and re-lubricate with proper silicone caliper grease. Stiff sliders cause uneven pad wear, rubbing, and noise.

Slide the caliper gently over the new pads without forcing it. Fit the caliper bolts and torque them to 35 Nm, then reinstall the brake hose mounting bolt, also to 35 Nm.

If you opened the bleed nipple, bleed that corner to clear any air and confirm a firm pedal, then top the reservoir up with fresh fluid. Refit the wheels, lower the car to the ground, and pump the brake pedal several times until it goes solid before you move off. Bed the new discs and pads in with light, progressive stops and avoid hard braking for roughly the first 200 km (125 miles).