Custom RSX Switch Panel for a Honda S2000 Push Button
Introduction
This project builds a custom switch panel for the Acura RSX (DC5) that houses a genuine Honda S2000 push button in place of the factory blanks. The work is mostly bodywork and finishing: two blank trim inserts are skimmed with filler, shaped, drilled, sanded, primed, and painted so the button sits flush in a seamless, factory-looking face. Note that this is a cosmetic and accessory install, not an ignition upgrade. Because the RSX key carries an immobilizer chip, the button does not replace the ignition and the car is still started with the key. While the panel is out, the cruise-control switch can be reconnected and hidden so cruise runs entirely from the steering-wheel controls. The method suits cars without factory foglights, which already carry one extra blank; a second blank can be ordered from Acura, and the mounting location is flexible (for example the mirror-control or hazard-switch slot). Adapted from a community writeup by Krisen Type-S on Club RSX (https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-guide-custom-s2000-button-dash-panel.249520/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Flat-tipped screwdriver (trim removal)
- Drill
- 1 1/4 inch hole cutter for plastic
- 400 grit sandpaper
- 800 grit sandpaper (used wet)
- Spreader or spatula for body filler
- Oven (optional, to speed filler curing)
Parts Required
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Genuine Honda S2000 push button, with its wiring and relay
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2 blank switch panels (cars without factory foglights include one spare; order the second from Acura)
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Bondo body filler ("Plastic Metal" / "liquid metal"; any Bondo-type filler works)
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Primer
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Flat or satin black paint (Krylon flat/satin black recommended to match the interior)
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Super glue and epoxy (to secure the button)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Disconnect all wiring harnesses before pulling the panel out to avoid damaging connectors.
- ⚠ The S2000 button does not replace the ignition. The immobilizer chip in the key means the car is still started with the key.
- ⚠ If you oven-cure the filler, watch the panel closely; heat near 200 degrees Celsius can warp or melt plastic trim.
- ⚠ Never force the panel back into the dash. Forcing it can crack the trim or pinch wiring; remove it and clear the obstruction instead.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Remove the switch trim panel
Working from inside the car, gently pry the trim panel free with a flat-tipped screwdriver while protecting the surrounding dash surface. As it releases, reach behind it and unplug every connector feeding the panel so the piece can be lifted out completely.
2 Remove the factory switches
Free the mirror-adjustment switch and pop the sunroof and cruise-control switches out of the panel. Note which harness each one plugs into, since the mirror, sunroof, and cruise switches will be handled differently as the job continues.
3 Reconnect and conceal the cruise switch
Plug the cruise-control switch back into its harness, set it to the on position, and tuck it out of sight behind the dash. Cruise then stays enabled and is operated solely from the steering-wheel buttons, which frees up that slot on the panel for a clean look.
4 Join the two blank panels
Set the pair of blank inserts together so they form one continuous face. This combined surface becomes the base you will fill, shape, and drill for the button.
5 Skim the panel with a thin filler coat
Using a spreader, lay a thin, even layer of body filler across the entire combined surface; coating the whole face rather than just the seam gives a consistent appearance once painted. Keep filler clear of the sunroof-switch opening. Warming the piece in an oven at roughly 200 degrees Celsius can speed curing of this first coat, but do it cautiously, since excess heat can distort plastic trim.
6 Drill the button opening
Once the first filler coat is hard, mark where the button will sit. Start with a small pilot hole to keep the cutter centered, then open the hole to size with a 1 1/4 inch plastic hole cutter, drilling slowly and steadily.
7 Sand the surface smooth
Knock down the high spots and tool marks with 400 grit paper, then switch to 800 grit used wet to refine the face to a fine, even finish.
8 Fill and re-sand any low spots
Check the surface under good light. Wherever pinholes or dips remain, add filler to those areas only and repeat the sanding sequence until the whole face is flat and uniform.
9 Prime and paint
Apply primer, then finish in your chosen color. A flat or satin black such as Krylon flat/satin black blends well with the factory interior. Allow each coat to dry fully before handling.
10 Mount the button and refit the switches
After the paint has cured completely, seat the S2000 button in its hole. A combination of super glue and epoxy holds it firmly once set. Reinstall the mirror and sunroof switches you took out earlier.
11 Refit the completed panel
Feed the finished panel back into the dash, reconnecting each harness and the button wiring as you go. The S2000 button is deep, so you may need to reroute wires behind the dash to make clearance. Seat it gently; if the panel resists, pull it back out and find what is fouling it rather than forcing it in.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Cars without factory foglights already include one extra blank in the panel; order the second blank from Acura.
- 💡 The button location is up to you. Builders have used the mirror-control slot, the hazard-switch slot, or the cigarette-lighter area, relocating whichever switch is displaced.
- 💡 No blanks on hand? One builder skipped the extra panels entirely, filled the openings with metal filler, and cut the button hole with a Dremel instead of a 1 1/4 inch bit.
- 💡 If your paint comes out shiny instead of matte, confirm the can actually states matte/flat, check for the correct cap, and test the finish on a scrap plastic piece first.
- 💡 Optional garage-remote trick from the discussion: wire a 12V-compatible garage remote button so it stays permanently closed, then trigger it from a switched 12V source such as the high-beam circuit so the door opens when you flash the high beams.
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