Acura RSX (DC5): Integrate a Garage Door Opener into a Blank Dash Switch
Introduction
This project relocates a bulky garage door remote out of the cabin and replaces its handheld button with a discreet push-button flush-mounted in an unused dash switch position. It suits an Acura RSX (DC5) that lacks factory fog lights, which leaves an empty filler switch on the left of the dash that is ideal for the button; the remote itself is then hidden under the dash. Electrically the job is simple: you wire a new button in parallel with the tiny button already on the remote's circuit board, so pressing the dash button does exactly what pressing the remote would. The result looks factory-installed, frees up cup-holder and console space, and stops the remote rattling around. The same approach adapts to other mounting spots discussed in the thread, such as the shelf under the parking-brake coin tray, the high-beam switch, or simply resting a small remote in the armrest slot. A security caveat applies throughout: anything that opens your home should not be easy to reach in a car that could be stolen. Adapted from a community writeup by petah on Club RSX (https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-remote-garage-door-opener.189022/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Corded or cordless drill
- 0.5-inch drill bit
- Hobby (exacto) knife
- Small flat-head screwdriver
- Soldering iron
- Wire strippers
- Pull/guide wire for routing
Parts Required
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Push-button switch, momentary preferred (RadioShack/AutoZone, roughly $2.99)
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Unused fog-light blank switch insert (left side of dash)
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About 28 inches of two-conductor electrical wire
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Existing garage door remote transmitter
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Electrical tape
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Solder or quick-disconnect connectors
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Do not leave a garage opener, or an easy-to-reach button that triggers one, in a vehicle that could be stolen; it grants access to your home.
- ⚠ Keep the two conductors isolated with tape at the switch terminals so they cannot short against each other.
- ⚠ Disable the remote by flipping one DIP switch out of position while wiring, so the door does not cycle unexpectedly, then restore it when finished.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Plan the button location and disable the remote first
Decide where the button will live. On an RSX without fog lights, the empty filler switch on the left of the dash is the cleanest spot and hides the remote beneath the dash. Alternatives raised in the discussion include the shelf under the parking-brake coin tray (velcro the remote there and drill the button on the driver's side of the brake), the high-beam switch, or the armrest slot behind the window switches for compact remotes. Before doing any wiring, prevent the door from cycling unexpectedly: an older transmitter carries a bank of DIP switches (10 on the unit shown) that set its code, so flip just one of them out of its set position while you work, and note which one so you can restore it afterward.
2 Remove the blank filler switch
Ease the empty filler out of the dash with a small flat-head screwdriver; a narrow blade is less likely to mar the surrounding trim. Work the insert free from its housing and set it aside on the bench for drilling.
3 Open the button hole in the filler
Pare away the rear of the blank insert with a hobby knife so the switch body has room to sit inside. Then drill a 0.5-inch-diameter hole (that is diameter, not radius) sized to accept the push-button. Test-fit as you go so the button seats snugly without slop.
4 Mount the push-button in the filler
The two-piece button (from RadioShack or an auto-parts store, around $2.99) separates into a front collar and a threaded back. Pass it through the drilled hole and secure it; the back piece may need to be reversed to thread on cleanly. Prefer a momentary button, which self-releases like holding the remote. A plain on/off switch also works but must be switched back off by hand once the door starts moving, roughly two to three seconds.
5 Open the remote and find the trigger contacts
Split the remote case open. Your button will run in parallel with the small onboard button that operates the door, effectively bypassing it. Identify the two solder pads or terminals for that specific button. If the remote presents more than two contacts (some have four), use only the pair tied to the open button. A lit switch is a special case: those typically have three connectors and need a separate low-current power feed to illuminate.
6 Connect the lead to the remote
Solder a two-conductor lead of roughly 28 inches to the two contacts you identified. Fitting quick-disconnect connectors at the remote is worthwhile: it lets you unplug the remote later to change its battery or move it to another vehicle. Reinstall the remote's battery once the joints are made.
7 Bench-test before routing anything
With the battery in and the lead attached, press your new button and confirm the door opens and closes reliably. This verification before final assembly is the single most important check; if nothing happens, you are on the wrong pair of contacts, so move to the correct terminals and test again.
8 Route the wire and conceal the remote
Feed the lead from beneath the dash across to the switch opening, drawing it through with a pull wire. Leaving the run generously long (the 28-inch length exists for this reason) lets you pull the remote back out for a battery swap without unpicking the install. Tuck the remote itself somewhere out of view under the dash.
9 Terminate at the switch and reinstall
Strip about 0.8 inch from each conductor, wrap one around each button terminal, and isolate the two connections from each other with electrical tape so they cannot short. Secure the leads so vibration will not shake them loose. Snap the switch and its module back into the dash opening.
10 Restore the code and confirm operation
Return the DIP switch you flipped in the first step to its original position so the remote matches your opener again. Press the dash button one more time to confirm the door responds now that everything is buttoned up. Keep the security note in mind: a hidden button that opens your home is convenient but should not be left obvious in an unsecured car.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Use quick-disconnect connectors at the switch end instead of soldering there; wiring inside the car is awkward, and connectors let you pull the remote for battery changes.
- 💡 A momentary button behaves most like the factory remote press; a latching on/off switch works but must be turned back off manually after the door moves (about 2-3 seconds).
- 💡 The remote's own battery commonly lasts around two years. Hardwiring to a car power source is possible but needs a voltage-regulating circuit and does not improve signal range.
- 💡 For a factory look, pick a stock-style or color-matched button; printed text on a fog-light or sunroof blank can be wiped off with alcohol.
- 💡 Later Acura models such as the TL and TSX offered a factory HomeLink control near the sunroof switches, which is the same idea done from the factory.
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