Acura RDX Rear Door Coaxial Speaker Replacement
Introduction
This guide covers swapping the factory rear-door coaxial speakers in a first-generation Acura RDX for aftermarket 6.5 in. coaxials. It is a common early step for owners upgrading the stock audio system, and the same procedure applies to either rear door. Because the RDX door opening is not a bolt-in aftermarket fit, the job involves cutting off the factory connector, extending the short door leads, and drilling new mounting holes, so plan on light wiring and drilling work rather than a pure plug-and-play swap. Choose replacements rated at 2 ohms so they present the same load the factory head unit and amplifier expect. If you later add aftermarket amplifiers, read the tips below first: the RDX carries a data link between the head unit and the factory sub amplifier that should be preserved. Adapted from a community writeup by droebuck on AcuraZine (https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-diy-faq-161/rdx-non-tech-08-stock-speaker-replacement-adding-amos-806044/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Phillips screwdriver
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Plastic trim / panel pry tools
- Wire cutter and stripper
- Power drill with a small bit
- Soldering iron or electrical tape
- Marker
Parts Required
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Aftermarket 6.5 in. coaxial speakers (2 ohm to match factory impedance; e.g. Infinity Reference 6.5)
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Crimp-style wire connectors
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Extra speaker wire (a few inches per lead)
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Foam gasket rings (typically included with the new speakers)
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#8 x 1/2 in. round-head Phillips sheet-metal screws
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Keep the drill bit shallow when making the mounting holes so you do not strike the window glass, window regulator, or wiring harness inside the door.
- ⚠ The rear coaxials are underpowered on the factory amplifier; do not judge the new speakers' output until any planned aftermarket amplification is installed.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Remove the door panel fasteners
Back out the single Phillips bolt tucked underneath the armrest. Behind the interior door handle, use a small flat screwdriver in the molded notch to pop off the trim cover, then remove the three Phillips screws it hides. Finally, take hold of the triangular trim in the upper front corner (between the door sill and the window) and pull it straight toward the cabin to release its two clips.
2 Release the panel clips and lift it off
The rest of the panel is held by clips around its perimeter. Insert a plastic pry tool into the access slot at the bottom edge and lever the lowest clip loose, then work the tool along the sides, freeing each clip in turn. The top edge has no clips — it hooks over a lip at the window line. Once the perimeter is released, lift the panel straight up to unhook it from that lip.
3 Set the panel aside without unplugging it
The detached panel is still tethered by the door-lock and window-switch wiring, but there is enough slack to reach the speaker, so leave those connectors attached. Rest or hold the panel clear of the work area to expose the speaker.
4 Remove the factory speaker
Take out the single Phillips screw at the top of the speaker frame. Slide a flat screwdriver behind the upper edge and gently free it to break the seal made by the factory foam gasket. The lower edge sits on a locating tab in a slot, so once the top is loose the speaker lifts straight out.
5 Adapt the factory wiring
The stock lead ends in a keyed plastic plug that will not fit the new speaker, so cut it off. The factory wires are very short, so crimp a few inches of additional speaker wire onto each conductor. The extension gives you room to work and makes the terminal connections easier to reach.
6 Position, mark, and drill mounting holes
Seat the new 6.5 in. coaxial speaker in the door opening and mark the four frame mounting points with a marker. Move the speaker aside and drill a small pilot hole at each mark. Keep the bit shallow so it only passes through the mounting flange and does not reach the window glass, regulator, or wiring inside the door cavity.
7 Fit the gasket and connect the speaker
Place the foam ring supplied with the speaker against the door to form an acoustic seal between the speaker and the sheet metal. Connect the extended leads to the speaker terminals, then secure each joint by soldering it or wrapping it with electrical tape.
8 Test before final mounting
With the speaker wired but not yet screwed down, switch on the stereo and use the balance and fade controls to isolate this one speaker so you can confirm it plays cleanly. Fixing any polarity or connection fault now is far easier than after reassembly.
9 Fasten the speaker to the door
Line the speaker's mounting holes up with the pilot holes you drilled and drive it home with four #8 x 1/2 in. round-head Phillips sheet-metal screws.
10 Reassemble the door panel
Hook the top edge of the panel back over the window-line lip and press firmly around the perimeter to reseat every clip. Refit the three screws behind the handle and clip the trim cover back on, then reinstall the armrest bolt. Snap the triangular corner trim back onto its two clips to finish.
Pro Tips
- 💡 When you later add aftermarket amplifiers, leave the factory amplifiers in the signal path and feed the aftermarket amps through a line output converter such as an AudioControl L6Ci. A data link runs between the head unit and the factory sub amplifier; removing the stock amps drops that link and disables features such as the Bluetooth/navigation audio muting.
- 💡 The same removal and installation sequence works identically on both rear doors.
- 💡 The factory speakers are surprisingly light and flimsy compared with aftermarket units; expect noticeably more high-frequency detail once the swap is done, though the difference is limited until the speakers are properly powered.
- 💡 Owners have used this same door-panel procedure to swap in a factory ELS replacement speaker in around 20 minutes when only restoring stock sound.
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