Acura Integra GS-R (DC2, B18C1) Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement

The B18C1 in the 1994-2001 Integra GS-R uses a rubber timing belt that also drives the water pump, so the belt, tensioner, tensioner spring and water pump are normally replaced together. The source writeup gives Honda's interval as 90,000 to 100,000 miles or five years. One Honda-Tech member reports a 60,000-mile figure in his manual, so check the schedule for your car. The job means removing the accessory belts, the driver-side engine mount, the valve cover, the crank pulley and the timing covers, then lining up the timing marks before the old belt comes off. This is an interference engine. If the belt goes on a tooth off or loses tension, the valves can hit the pistons, so double-check every mark before starting the engine. A Honda-Tech thread (https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/timing-belt-remove-install-b18c-537804/) covers the same job. Adapted from a community writeup by John Huh on Pro Street Online (https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/06/05/change-b18c1-dohc-vtec-timing-belt/).

1. 01

   Step 1: Prepare the car

   Work on a cold engine. Disconnect the battery negative terminal, chock the rear wheels, raise and support the front of the car on jack stands, and remove the driver-side front wheel for access to the crank pulley. Drain the cooling system, because the water pump is coming out.

   Garage mode from here →
2. 02

   Step 2: Remove the accessory belts

   Remove the belts in order: the power steering belt (loosen the wing nut and the 12mm bolts), the A/C belt (loosen the 12mm idler pulley and 10mm arm bolts), then the alternator belt (loosen the top adjusting bolt).

   Garage mode from here →
3. 03

   Step 3: Clear the top of the engine

   Remove the cruise control actuator (10mm bolts) for access, then remove the valve cover (10mm nuts).

   Garage mode from here →
4. 04

   Step 4: Support the engine and remove the mount

   Put a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to carry the engine's weight, then remove the driver-side engine mount (two 14mm nuts and one 17mm bolt).

   Garage mode from here →
5. 05

   Step 5: Set TDC before removing the belt

   Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise (normal rotation, viewed from the pulley end) to No. 1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. The writeup confirms TDC with a long extension in the No. 1 spark plug hole. At TDC the 'UP' marks on both cam gears point up and the marks on the cam gears line up with each other.

   Garage mode from here →
6. 06

   Step 6: Remove the crank pulley

   Remove the crank pulley bolt with an impact gun or a breaker bar and pulley holder, and pull off the pulley. Then remove the upper and lower timing belt covers (10mm bolts) and, on OBD2 models, the crank position sensor.

   Garage mode from here →
7. 07

   Step 7: Confirm the marks

   Check that the mark on the crank timing gear lines up with the TDC mark on the oil pump housing, and that both cam gears still show 'UP' at the top with their marks aligned.

   Garage mode from here →
8. 08

   Step 8: Remove the old belt and tensioner

   Loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt, push the tensioner away from the belt and slip the old belt off. Remove the tensioner and its spring.

   Garage mode from here →
9. 09

   Step 9: Replace the water pump

   Remove the five 10mm bolts and the old water pump. Clean the mating surface on the block, then install the new pump with its new seal, tightening the bolts evenly.

   Garage mode from here →
10. 10

    Step 10: Install the new belt

    Fit the new tensioner and spring with the 14mm bolt finger-tight. Starting at the crank gear, route the new belt around the gears with no slack on the back (rear) side of the engine, keeping all marks aligned.

    Garage mode from here →
11. 11

    Step 11: Set initial tension

    Gently pry against the tensioner arm with a large flat-blade screwdriver to take up the slack, then snug the 14mm tensioner bolt finger-tight and let the spring do the work. Recheck that every mark is still aligned.

    Garage mode from here →
12. 12

    Step 12: Rotate and verify

    Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise six full turns by hand and stop at TDC. All marks must line up again. If any are off, remove the belt and start again; do not run the engine.

    Garage mode from here →
13. 13

    Step 13: Final tension

    With the engine at TDC, loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt so the spring takes up the belt. The Honda-Tech writeup then turns the crank counterclockwise by three teeth and tightens the tensioner bolt, aiming for about 1 inch of deflection on the long front run. Pro Street describes 'turning back three teeth' and later explained that it meant rotating the engine to check the marks. Because the two sources describe this step differently, follow the factory service manual procedure. Pro Street torques the tensioner bolt to 40 lb-ft; confirm this against the manual. Turn the crank on to TDC and check the marks once more.

    Garage mode from here →
14. 14

    Step 14: Reassemble

    Refit the crank position sensor (OBD2), the timing covers, the crank pulley key and guide plate, and the crank pulley. Torque the crank pulley bolt to the factory service manual value. The Pro Street writeup quotes 140 lb-ft with anti-seize on the threads, but no second source confirms that figure, and lubricated threads clamp harder at the same torque. Reinstall the engine mount, the valve cover with a new gasket, the cruise control actuator and the accessory belts, adjusting each belt's tension.

    Garage mode from here →
15. 15

    Step 15: Refill coolant and start

    Refill the cooling system with Honda coolant and bleed out the air. Reconnect the battery, start the engine, and check for leaks at the water pump and for correct idle. Recheck the coolant level once it has cooled.

    Garage mode from here →