Acura CL (1st Gen) Steering Wheel Removal and Replacement
Introduction
This guide covers taking the factory steering wheel off a first-generation Acura CL (1997-1999) and installing a replacement, whether the goal is fixing a worn or damaged wheel or upgrading to a leather or woodgrain wheel from a later CL, TL, or MDX. Because the wheel carries a live SRS airbag, the work involves disabling the restraint system, releasing the airbag module, drawing the wheel off its splined shaft with a puller, and transferring the control-switch brackets and trim before reassembly. It is well within reach of a careful home mechanic, but the airbag and the clock spring behind the wheel demand respect and patience. Adapted from a community writeup by saiko_cl_duck on AcuraZine (https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-diy-faq-74/1st-gen-cl-steering-wheel-diy-w-pics-486041/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Torque wrench
- T30 Torx bit
- Ratchet with large and small sockets
- 14mm socket
- 6-inch socket extension
- Small Phillips screwdriver
- Medium Phillips screwdriver
- Universal steering wheel puller (rentable from most auto parts stores)
Parts Required
-
Replacement OEM steering wheel (Acura/Honda)
-
Compatible SRS airbag module (required when moving to a different-generation wheel; a 1997 CL needs a 1998-or-newer airbag)
-
Assorted small Phillips screws (some wheels use smaller cushion screws)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ The wheel houses a live SRS airbag. Disconnect the battery and wait several minutes before touching the module, and never work with the battery connected. Handle the removed airbag with its cover facing up and away from your body.
- ⚠ Do not drive the puller's outer bolts past a few visible threads. Over-insertion punctures the clock spring (cable reel) behind the wheel.
- ⚠ Keep the clock spring centered while the wheel is off. Letting it rotate off center can damage the airbag and horn circuit and trigger the SRS light.
- ⚠ Record the radio anti-theft code before disconnecting the battery.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Prepare the vehicle and disable the SRS system
Park with the road wheels pointed straight ahead so the spokes end up centered; a crooked wheel now becomes an off-center wheel later. Write down the radio anti-theft code before cutting power. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and let the SRS capacitor discharge for several minutes so the airbag cannot fire while you work. As an added precaution, unplug the yellow SRS connectors at both airbags: the driver-side connector sits under the column and is reachable once the lower cover is off, and the passenger connector is tucked into the upper-left corner behind the open glove box.
2 Remove the trim access panels
Take off the small covers on each side of the wheel hub near the cruise and audio buttons, then remove the lower cover beneath the hub. These expose the switch screws and the airbag retaining bolts.
3 Detach the cruise and audio control switches
Back out the small Phillips screws holding the cruise control and volume switch clusters, lift each switch off the wheel, and unplug its connector. Keep each switch with its own screws for reinstallation on the replacement wheel.
4 Free and disconnect the airbag module
Behind the spokes, remove the T30 Torx bolt on each side; these two fasteners hold the airbag. Ease the module forward, release its connector or connectors, and confirm any remaining leads are unclipped. Set the airbag on a bench with its cover facing up and away from you.
5 Release the clock spring cover and its connectors
Remove the two Phillips screws securing the clear plastic housing at the hub center. Turn it over, push the two black connector halves out of their seats, and separate them. This housing also captures the lower edge of the rear trim panel, so keep it handy.
6 Loosen the center retaining bolt
Hold the wheel firmly straight and break the 14mm center bolt loose. It takes a solid push and will feel alarmingly stiff just before it releases; once it breaks free, back it out completely.
7 Pull the wheel off the splined shaft
Fit a universal steering wheel puller. Thread its two outer bolts into the offset holes in the wheel, but stop while a few threads still show, because driving them in all the way will strike and puncture the clock spring behind the wheel. Seat the puller's center screw in the empty 14mm bolt bore and tighten it until the wheel breaks free of the taper. Do not lift the wheel away yet.
8 Lift the wheel while holding the clock spring centered
Draw the wheel off slowly with one hand while steadying the clock spring (cable reel) with the other so it does not spring out of position. If the reel rotates off center it must be re-centered before reassembly, which is tedious and easy to get wrong.
9 Transfer the switch brackets and trim to the new wheel
Move the cruise and audio switch brackets, the padded upper cushion, and the rear trim panel from the old wheel onto the replacement, reusing the screws found on the back of the old wheel. Some replacement wheels take slightly smaller cushion screws, so test-fit and substitute hardware if the originals will not bite.
10 Mount the new wheel and torque the center bolt
Slide the new wheel onto the shaft, feeding the switch and airbag wiring up through the opening below the center-bolt bore. Align the spokes to match the old wheel's straight-ahead position. Install the 14mm center bolt and tighten it to 28 lb-ft.
11 Reconnect the clock spring cover and route the wiring
Rejoin the two black connector halves that link the airbag circuit to the column, then refit the clear housing, which also recaptures the bottom of the rear trim. Return each harness to its original channel; correct routing matters, since a pinched lead can damage a circuit or hold the trim proud.
12 Reinstall the airbag module
Fully reconnect the airbag, then seat the module while keeping the red horn lead routed outside the metal frame so it is not pinched. Reinstall both T30 Torx bolts. Work the module gently until it sits flush; a little fiddling is normal.
13 Reassemble the trim and restore power
Refit the cruise and audio switches, the two side covers, and the lower cover. Reconnect the battery, re-enter the radio code, and switch on the ignition to confirm the SRS warning light goes out. If it stays lit, stop and diagnose the airbag circuit before driving.
Pro Tips
- 💡 A wheel puller can be rented for a small refundable deposit at national auto parts chains and is the clean way to release the wheel. Some installers instead free it by hand: rock it loose, then brace against the seat and pull steadily toward you.
- 💡 When fitting a 2nd-gen CL/TL or MDX wheel to a 1997 CL, the rear trim often rubs the column shroud through part of the wheel's travel. Grinding the trim edges and screw bosses, or adding a thin foam shim, reduces or cures it, but a perfect fit can take several attempts.
- 💡 MDX wheels add genuine wood trim, but the leather frequently reads darker and browner than the airbag cover. A coat of Krylon Fusion plastic/vinyl paint on the airbag cover can bring the colors closer together.
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