K-Series Swap: Installing an Auto-Tensioning A/C and Power Steering Delete Kit
- If the A/C system still holds refrigerant, have it recovered by a licensed shop before unbolting the compressor or opening its lines. Venting refrigerant is illegal in many places and can cause frostbite.
- Disconnect the battery before removing the alternator.
- Under-torqued bolts can fatigue or loosen; use the dry or oiled torque value that matches how you assemble them.
- Keep fingers clear of the belt and tensioner when releasing the tensioner.
Introduction
Many K-swaps drop the A/C compressor and power steering pump to save weight and clear the chassis. This kind of kit moves the alternator to where the A/C compressor was and replaces the factory belt tensioner with a spring-loaded unit that can be adjusted for belts within about a 2 in range and has a built-in tension indicator. It is easiest with the engine out, but can be done with the engine in the car. Cars that never had a belt-driven power steering pump (such as the EP3) have an idler pulley in its place, which also comes off. Adapted from a community writeup by Hybrid Racing on guides.hybrid-racing.com (https://guides.hybrid-racing.com/Guide/Auto-Tensioning+A-C+&+Power+Steering+Delete+Kit+Install+Tips/47).
Procedure
11 steps-
Step 1: Strip the accessory drive
Disconnect the battery. If the A/C is charged, have the refrigerant recovered first, and have a drain pan ready for power steering fluid. Remove the A/C compressor (four bolts), power steering pump (two bolts) or idler pulley, alternator (three bolts) and factory belt tensioner (three bolts); Hybrid Racing says these are all 12 mm. Then unbolt the aluminium A/C compressor bracket. Only the crank and water pump pulleys should remain.
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Step 2: Install the auto-tensioner
Fit the tensioner with the 45 mm M8x1.25 bolt through its top into the old upper alternator hole, and the 20 mm M8x1.25 bolt through its lower hole into the left lower alternator hole. Torque both to 35 lb-ft dry or 28 lb-ft if oiled (6 mm Allen).
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Step 3: Adjust the tensioner spring housing for your belt
The tensioner ships at its lowest setting with no grooves showing. To adjust, remove the three M8 bolts (6 mm Allen) holding the spring housing and backing plate, reposition it, and refit them at 35 lb-ft dry or 28 lb-ft oiled. With the supplied belt, Hybrid Racing says a K24 typically needs 2-3 grooves showing and a K20 3-4.
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Step 4: Fit the alternator bracket
Bolt the supplied alternator bracket to the two holes the A/C bracket used, with the two black M10x1.25 bolts (8 mm or 5/16 in Allen). Leave them loose for now.
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Step 5: Hang the alternator
Put the tall black spacer between the alternator and the block, then run the 100 mm M8x1.25 bolt through the upper alternator ear into the old top-left A/C compressor hole. Thread it in but do not tighten yet.
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Step 6: Fit the lower alternator bolts
Attach the alternator's two lower ears to the bracket. K-series alternators have either a 30 mm or a 40 mm lower flange; use the 55 mm M8 bolts for 30 mm flanges and the 65 mm bolts for 40 mm. Fit the short black spacers between alternator and bracket only if your application calls for them.
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Step 7: Torque the alternator and bracket
Tighten the three alternator bolts first, then the two bracket bolts. Torque the M8 bolts to 35 lb-ft dry or 28 lb-ft oiled and the M10 bolts to 70 lb-ft dry or 55 lb-ft oiled; you need a swivel to reach the M10s.
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Step 8: Fit the belt
Wrap the belt around the crank, water pump and tensioner pulley. Put a 19 mm socket and breaker bar (or wrench) on the tensioner pulley bolt, rotate counter-clockwise to swing the pulley down, and slip the belt onto the alternator. If it is very tight, put it on the water pump last instead.
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Step 9: Check belt alignment
Because the alternator pulley now sits further back, the belt should run on the six crank-pulley ribs nearest the engine and the six alternator ribs furthest from the alternator.
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Step 10: Check the tension indicator
The small mark on the side of the tensioner should sit inside the larger mark. If the belt will not go on or the marks do not line up, readjust the spring housing and try again.
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Step 11: Reconnect and run
Reconnect the alternator wiring and battery, start the engine and confirm the belt tracks straight and the charging voltage is normal.
- Because the tensioner covers about 2 in of belt length, you have some flexibility when choosing a replacement belt.
Related procedures
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