Honda Fit (GE8) Focal 165V1 Component Speaker Install Using Factory Door Mounts
Introduction
This guide covers fitting a Focal 165V1 component set into the front doors of a second-generation Honda Fit (GE8, including the 2009 base model) while reusing the factory speaker location. The stock mount is not deep enough for the aftermarket woofer as-is, so part of the plastic mounting ring is trimmed away to let the new driver seat flat. The tweeter is set into the door card at the pre-marked factory position, and the crossovers are tucked inside the door. Expect a clear step up in clarity and mid-bass over the OEM speakers, particularly when paired with an upgraded head unit. This is an involved but achievable job that mostly requires patience and care when cutting the factory plastic. Adapted from a community writeup by NipponFit on FitFreak (https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-gen-ge8-specific-fit-interior-modifications-sub-forum/55955-diy-focal-165v1-installed-using-factory-mounts.html), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Phillips screwdriver
- Plastic trim/pry tool
- Drill with 45 mm hole saw
- Hacksaw or rotary cutting tool
- Utility knife (box cutter)
Parts Required
-
Focal 165V1 component speaker set (woofers, tweeters, crossovers)
-
Speaker wiring and connectors as needed
-
Double-sided mounting tape
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ The door panel stays connected by the interior handle cables after the clips release. Lift gently and detach the linkages before pulling it away, or you can snap them.
- ⚠ Sawing and cutting the factory mount is irreversible. Measure and test-fit before removing any plastic.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Remove the door latch screw
Open the interior door release handle to expose the fastener behind it and back out that first screw. It secures the leading edge of the door panel.
2 Release the armrest trim and pull the hidden screw
The outer plastic cap on the armrest pops free by hand with light pressure. Underneath sits a second screw; remove it.
3 Disconnect the power window switch
Unclip the harness feeding the window switch so the panel is no longer tethered by that wiring and can be lifted away freely.
4 Free the door panel from its clips
The card is held by roughly eight or nine Honda push clips around its perimeter. Work it loose starting at the lower left corner, then lift the panel upward. Keep supporting it once the clips release, because the interior handle cables are still attached. Detach the two handle linkages before setting the panel aside. The rear doors come apart the same way.
5 Remove the factory speaker
A single Phillips screw retains the OEM driver. Back it out, lift the speaker from its recess, and unplug the factory harness connector.
6 Strip the factory mount down to the ring
Break away the outer plastic tabs, then pull out the old magnet, the wiring connector, and the speaker basket. Remove the inner plastic layer as well so you are left with the bare mounting ring. The lowest tab can be stubborn; it can be left in place if it does not interfere with the new driver.
7 Cut the mounting surface flat
Saw off the raised portion of the factory mount so the replacement woofer can sit flush against the ring rather than perching on the leftover plastic.
8 Mount the Focal 165V1 woofer
Pre-drill the screw holes into the prepared mount before fastening the woofer down. Pre-drilling keeps the plastic from splitting and makes the install noticeably easier.
9 Clear the door card for the new cone
The deeper aftermarket woofer can foul plastic on the back of the door panel. Trim away the offending material with a utility knife so nothing contacts the moving cone once the panel is reinstalled.
10 Fit the tweeter
Drill a 45mm hole in the door card at the factory-marked spot, identified by a molded circle with a cross in it. Seat the tweeter there. It will stand slightly proud of the surface; aim the position toward the listener for the best imaging.
11 Mount the crossovers and reassemble
Fix each passive crossover to the door with double-sided tape, keeping it clear of the window regulator and other moving parts. Reconnect the speaker wiring, then reinstall the door panel by reversing the removal steps and reseating all clips.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Upgrading the head unit alone already sharpens the sound; the component speakers build further on that improvement.
- 💡 These drivers deliver strong mid-bass rather than deep low bass. If you want true low-end, add a subwoofer instead of expecting it from the door speakers.
- 💡 Tweeter aim matters: an off-axis tweeter on the passenger side can sound shadowed by the driver, so choose the mounting angle deliberately.
- 💡 Rear doors follow the same panel-removal sequence if you plan to add sound deadening or speakers there too.
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