Honda CR-Z HKS Kansai Rear Hatch Brace Installation
Introduction
This guide covers fitting an HKS Kansai rear hatch brace to the Honda CR-Z (ZF1 hybrid). The brace ties the two rear strut/hatch anchor points together through a pair of white mounting brackets that sandwich over the factory black brackets, stiffening the rear of the chassis. The bulk of the work is careful teardown of the cargo-area trim to reach the mounting points, plus trimming two side panels so they clear the finished bar. A key reason to choose the Kansai over the Cusco alternative is serviceability: the Kansai's hardware stays accessible and can be removed later with hand tools, whereas the Cusco anchors behind the plastic panels. Because the trim clips and panels crack easily when cold, do this work when the car and its plastics are warm. Adapted from a community writeup by zeropointzero on CRZ Forum (https://www.crzforum.com/threads/partial-diy-hks-kansai-rear-hatch-brace-installed.3636/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 12mm socket or wrench
- Torque wrench
- Plastic trim / panel removal tool
- Dremel or similar rotary tool
- Razor blade or utility knife
- Sharpie or paint marker
Parts Required
-
HKS Kansai rear hatch brace kit (aluminum cross bar, white mounting brackets, supplied cutting template)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Do the trim removal on a warm day; cold plastic panels and clips crack and break far more easily.
- ⚠ Work slowly when releasing hidden clips, feeling for each one, to avoid snapping tabs or damaging panels.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Warm the car and free the hatch weatherstrip
Work on a warm day so the plastic trim and clips flex instead of snapping. Peel back the section of rubber hatch/door gasket that runs along the rear plastic panels, exposing the outer edges of those panels. You only need to release enough of the seal to let the panel edges lift; leave the rest of the gasket in place.
2 Mark and remove the folding seat backs
Before touching the hardware, fold each seat back down and draw a reference line with a marker around its latch catches on BOTH sides, so the catches can be returned to the exact same position later; skipping this on either side can leave a seat back that will not latch correctly. Pop out the small plastic cover at the pivot (visible at the rear of the seat back while it is folded flat), then remove the single 12mm bolt on each side. Swing the black hinge clear and the seat back lifts straight out. On reassembly, torque the 12mm seat-back bolts to 16 ft-lbs.
3 Clear the cargo floor and lower trim
Lift out the lower cargo panel, the tire-cover panel, the spare wheel, and the styrofoam trays packed around it. Remove the large black cover beneath the tire cover, which is held by 2 clips. Then take out the lower molded seat buckets, released by 3 clips across the rear edge and 5 along the front. Set all fasteners aside so nothing is lost during reassembly.
4 Remove both rear side panels
Take out the side panels one at a time. Starting from the tailgate end and moving toward the front, release each hidden clip by feel and popping it loose as you reach it (expect roughly 10 per side). Go slowly and support the panel so nothing cracks. With both panels off, the rear subwoofer and left-side speakers are exposed if you want to do any audio work while everything is apart, and the hybrid battery vent ducting is now visible.
5 Test-fit the HKS mounting brackets
Locate the factory black brackets at each rear anchor point. Position the HKS white brackets so they sit on top of the OEM black brackets, and loosely fit the 12mm bolts to confirm alignment. Do not final-torque yet; you still need to trim the side panels to clear the assembly. The 12mm bracket bolts are torqued to 16 ft-lbs on final assembly.
6 Trim the side panels using the supplied template
The kit includes a cut-out template. Lay it on each side panel in the location shown in the HKS instructions and mark the openings. Cut the clearance notches on both panels with a Dremel and clean up the edges with a razor blade for a tidy fit. Trial-fit each panel over the bar as you go so you only remove as much material as needed.
7 Mount the aluminum bar and torque the hardware
With the brackets aligned and the panels clearing, install the aluminum cross bar between the white brackets. Tighten the 12mm mounting bolts to 16 ft-lbs. Confirm the bar is seated squarely and that the trimmed panels drop back over it without contact.
8 Reassemble the interior in reverse
Refit everything you removed in reverse order: side panels first (seating each clip firmly), then the seat buckets, black cover, spare tire and styrofoam trays, and the tire cover. Reinstall the seat backs, aligning the latch catches to your earlier marks, and torque the 12mm seat-back bolts to 16 ft-lbs. Press the hatch weatherstrip back over the panel edges. Fold the seats and confirm both sides latch before finishing.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Choose the Kansai over the Cusco if serviceability matters: its hardware stays reachable and can be pulled with hand tools, while the Cusco anchors behind the plastic panels.
- 💡 With the side panels out, the rear subwoofer and left speakers are easy to reach, so plan any stereo work for the same session.
- 💡 Draw alignment marks around the seat-back catches on both sides before removing them to guarantee correct latching afterward.
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