Honda CR-Z Cusco Rear Strut Bar Installation (EX With Subwoofer)
Introduction
This guide covers fitting a Cusco rear strut bar to a Honda CR-Z, with the extra work required on EX models. On a standard CR-Z the bar is essentially a documented bolt-in job, but the EX carries a rear subwoofer that sits over the left mounting point and blocks the body hole the kit needs. To make the bar fit, the left rear trim and subwoofer have to come out, one subwoofer mounting tab must be reshaped, and a longer bolt is needed where the subwoofer and strut mount share a hole. The result is a rear chassis brace that ties the two strut towers together to stiffen the rear of the car. The procedure below assumes an EX; owners of non-EX cars can skip the trim and subwoofer steps and simply mount the bar. Adapted from a community writeup by InsightRacer on CRZ Forum (https://www.crzforum.com/threads/diy-notes-cusco-rear-strut-bar-install-on-ex.10120/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Flat-blade screwdriver (for prying lids and releasing trim clips)
- Socket or wrench set (for subwoofer and mount fasteners)
- Rotary tool such as a Dremel, or a file/sandpaper (to reshape the subwoofer tab)
- Cutting tool for the maintenance lids (rotary tool or jigsaw)
- Ruler or measuring tape and marker (to lay out the lid cutouts)
Parts Required
-
Cusco rear strut bar kit (includes bolt-tabs, right-side nut-tab, and mounting bolts)
-
Longer M6x2.5 bolt for the shared left-side subwoofer/strut mount (EX only)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ The left rear side trim panel carries two wired lamps; unplug the trunk light before removing the panel so you do not tear the wiring.
- ⚠ Confirm the subwoofer connector and rear hatch light are reconnected before closing up the trim.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Access the rear damper mounts
Work from the cargo area. Pry out both damper maintenance lids with a flat screwdriver; they pop free easily. On a non-EX CR-Z this exposes the shock towers and the rest of the job follows the illustrated Cusco instructions. On the EX, the left-side subwoofer blocks one mount, so the following disassembly is needed before the mounts can be fitted.
2 Remove the left rear side trim panel (EX only)
Clear the cargo bay so you can reach the left trim: lift out the cargo floor lid, which is held by two snap tabs at its front edge, then remove the styrofoam side storage boxes and the spare tire. Release the IPU duct cover beneath the floor lid at its three front snap clips, then free the rear trim panel by pulling its top edge to pop the four clips. Now work the left side trim panel loose by hand, starting at the top front. Two wired lamps are mounted to this panel; unplug the trunk light before pulling the panel away. You do not have to detach it completely, only release enough clips to flex it outward and reach the subwoofer.
3 Remove the subwoofer
Unclip the connector on top of the subwoofer, then undo its four fasteners (three bolts and one nut). The enclosure is deep but lifts straight out once there is clearance. It must come off because it occupies one of the mount holes and blocks access to the body hole where a bolt-tab has to seat.
4 Reshape the subwoofer mounting tab
On the enclosure, the subwoofer's upper-right mounting tab happens to share the exact hole that the strut-bar mount needs. Flatten its sharp upper corner by removing about one quarter of the material diagonally, so the corner is no longer proud. A rotary tool, file, or sandpaper all work for this. The amount removed is small and does not affect how the subwoofer performs.
5 Seat the bolt-tabs and refit the subwoofer
Pull the wire retainers that hold the harness bundles above each shock out of the body; the holes they leave become your bolt access points. Slide the Cusco bolt-tabs into the body cavity so their threads stand out through the holes, and add the supplied nut-tab on the right side. The left side already has a threaded hole. On the EX, reinstall the reshaped subwoofer at this stage so its trimmed tab lines up with the shared mounting hole.
6 Bolt on the strut bar mounts
Fit the left and right strut-bar mounts and secure them with the kit bolts and nuts. On the EX left side the fastener has to pass through both the subwoofer tab and the strut mount to reach the captive nut in the body, so the standard M6x2 bolt (both the factory subwoofer bolt and the one in the kit) is too short to grab. Swap in a longer M6x2.5 bolt. Some installers also bend the bolt plates slightly to help everything align.
7 Cut the maintenance lids
Mark and cut the strut-bar openings in the two damper maintenance lids, following the exact dimensions listed in the Cusco instructions. Cut cleanly so the bar passes through and the lids still snap back into place afterward.
8 Fit the strut bar
Pass the strut bar through the cutouts in the maintenance lids, then bolt each end to its mount. If your kit uses the quick-release, tool-free bolts, get the bar fully seated before clamping them down; clamping early makes the parts fight the fitment. Keep track of the small quick-release pieces, as they drop easily and losing one inside the panel can force you to open it up again.
9 Reassemble the interior
Refit everything in reverse. Reconnect the subwoofer connector, plug the rear hatch light back in, and position the second lamp before closing the side trim panel. Reinstall the rear trim panel, IPU duct cover, spare tire, side boxes, and cargo floor lid, then pull the weatherseal back over the panel edge. Snap the modified maintenance lids into place to complete the install.
Pro Tips
- 💡 On the EX you do not need to fully remove the left side trim panel; releasing most of the clips and flexing it outward gives enough access to the subwoofer.
- 💡 Leave any quick-release bolts unclamped until the bar is fully seated, which keeps later removal and refitting quick and easy.
- 💡 The quick-release hardware is easy to drop and, in at least one owner's view, not worth the extra cost over standard bolts.
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