Acura 1G TL Rear Lowering Spring and Strut Replacement
Introduction
This guide covers swapping the rear coil springs on the first-generation Acura TL (2.5TL and 3.2TL, 1995-1998) for a set of lowering springs, with the option of replacing the rear struts at the same time. It is a practical way to drop the rear ride height and refresh worn suspension on a high-mileage car. The rear strut top mounts on this chassis sit under the rear seat, so the job starts inside the cabin rather than under the car, and the coil spring stores enough energy to be dangerous if handled carelessly. Owners report the first side is slow and awkward, while later corners go much faster once the sequence is understood. Reusing the factory struts with lowering springs gives a mild, streetable drop; pairing new dampers with the springs increases the drop and improves ride control. Adapted from a community writeup by KrayzieDxC on AcuraZine (https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-103/diy-rear-suspension-683125/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 10mm socket with extension
- 5mm hex (Allen) key
- 14mm socket or ratchet
- 17mm wrench or socket
- 15/16 in (22mm) socket
- Coil spring compressor (rentable from most parts stores)
- Large flat-blade screwdriver
- Penetrating oil (e.g. Liquid Wrench)
- Floor jack and jack stands
Parts Required
-
Rear lowering springs (pair)
-
Optional replacement rear struts (e.g. KYB GR2)
-
Penetrating oil
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ A loaded coil spring stores enough energy to cause serious injury; never fully remove the top center rod nut while the spring is compressed under load. Use a proper spring compressor and keep clear of the coil ends.
- ⚠ Support the vehicle on jack stands before working underneath it, never on a jack alone.
- ⚠ Move the brake hose aside before forcing the strut out so it is not stretched or damaged.
- ⚠ Do not run coilover springs or sleeves on worn factory struts; match the components or install a complete kit.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Remove the rear seat cushion
The upper strut mounts are hidden beneath the rear seat, so start inside the car. The seat bottom is retained by four fasteners reached with a 10mm socket and an extension: two near the outer corners and two toward the center. Undo all four and lift the cushion out to expose the top of each rear strut tower. Consult the factory service manual if the seat retention is unclear on your car.
2 Break the top mount loose before disassembly
With the spring still under load, use a 5mm hex key to back off the center rod nut on top of the strut only about three turns. Do not remove it completely at this stage, as the compressed spring can release violently if the mount is freed while loaded. Once the center nut is cracked loose, remove the strut's upper mounting nuts so the top of the assembly is no longer captured to the body.
3 Free the lower strut mount
Move under the car and locate the lower strut bolt. Spray it with penetrating oil and give it about five minutes to soak, which makes an aged fastener far easier to move. Then remove the 17mm nut at the base of the strut. If you are also servicing the brakes, the caliper can be unbolted and hung aside, but it is not required for the spring swap.
4 Extract the strut assembly
Push the knuckle and strut away from the car to create clearance, pressing down on the rotor and hub as needed to gain travel. Reposition the brake hose out of the path so it is not stretched or snagged. The strut can then be worked free by rotating it out of its lower perch, much like unthreading a large screw; note the motion so you can reverse it on reassembly.
5 Compress the spring and release the top hat
Secure the factory spring in a coil spring compressor and tighten until the upper spring seat and top hat are no longer carrying load. Hold the strut rod from turning with the 5mm hex and remove the center nut using a 14mm socket. Lift off the top hat and slide the compressed factory spring off the strut. Keep hands and body clear of the ends of the coil at all times.
6 Fit the lowering spring
Compress the new lowering spring, seat it on the strut, and reinstall the top hat, checking that the spring ends and mount sit correctly in their seats. Thread the center rod nut back on and tighten it, then slowly release the spring compressor so the new spring takes up its load evenly.
7 Reinstall the strut into the chassis
Guide the assembly back into place using the same rotating motion that removed it. Starting the lower bolt is the most frustrating part of the whole job. Line up the hole with a large flat-blade screwdriver and confirm you are turning the fastener the correct direction, since it is easy to waste a long time working against yourself here.
8 Seat the top mount and torque everything down
If the top hat will not drop into its recess, compress the spring slightly so the mount settles into the hole, snug the upper mounting nuts, then release the compressor. Tighten the 17mm lower bolt, reposition and reconnect the brake hose, and confirm the center rod nut is fully torqued. Repeat the entire procedure on the opposite side, then reinstall the rear seat cushion.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Expect the first corner to eat several hours; once the sequence clicks, later corners and repeat jobs go much faster, often under two hours.
- 💡 The single biggest time sink is starting the lower strut bolt back into its hole; align it with a large flat-blade screwdriver and double-check rotation direction.
- 💡 Factory struts can be reused with lowering springs for a mild drop; adding aftermarket dampers stacks additional height loss on top of the spring drop.
- 💡 Quality lowering springs such as Eibach give a moderate drop while keeping the ride streetable; some budget springs continue to settle lower over time.
- 💡 One reported combination is KYB GR2 struts paired with a roughly 2.5 in lowering spring set.
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