Acura 1G CL Intake Resonator (Air Silencer) Removal
Introduction
The factory intake resonator, or air silencer, on the first-generation Acura CL muffles induction noise. Removing it opens up the intake note for a louder, more aggressive sound - most noticeable when VTEC engages - at essentially no cost, though the real-world power gain is negligible. This guide covers the 3.0 CL and applies equally to the 2.3 CL of the same generation. The resonator is buried behind the airbox and the driver's-side inner fender liner, so most of the work is patient disassembly rather than anything mechanically difficult. Because the plastic fender-liner clips are fragile and the intake opening ends up sitting low in the fender, plan for a few broken clips and understand the added risk of drawing in water. Adapted from a community writeup by hougee on AcuraZine (https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-diy-faq-74/intake-resonator-removal-instructions-3-0s-414435/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 8 mm socket or nut driver
- 10 mm socket
- Ratchet with a long socket extension
- Trim/clip removal tool
- Floor jack and jack stand (optional access method)
- Lug wrench (if removing the front wheel)
Parts Required
-
Replacement inner fender liner retaining clips (8 mm hole, Honda) - recommended, they commonly break on removal
-
High-flow air filter such as a K&N (optional but recommended once the silencer is gone)
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ The relocated intake opening sits low in the fender. Driving through deep water or standing puddles can draw water into the engine and risk hydrolock.
- ⚠ The fender-liner clips break easily - have replacement 8 mm clips on hand so the liner can be reinstalled securely and will not rub the tire.
- ⚠ If you raise the car for access, support it on a jack stand before reaching underneath; never work with the vehicle held only by the jack.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Open the airbox and remove the filter
Release the four 8 mm screws that secure the upper half of the air filter housing, lift off the lid, and take out the air filter element. Clearing the filter now gives you unobstructed access to the housing mounting hardware underneath.
2 Unbolt the airbox from its mounts
Two 10 mm bolts hold the filter box down. One is in plain sight; the second hides in the narrow gap between the battery and the housing, where only a socket on a long extension will reach it. Back both bolts out and lift the box away to expose the resonator plumbing behind it.
3 Free the inner fender liner
Steer the front wheels fully to the left to open up room in the driver's-side wheel well. Remove the two screws at the lower edge of the plastic liner, then release enough of the push-in retaining clips to peel the liner back - typically three or four. These clips are brittle and often snap during removal. The correct replacement uses an 8 mm mounting hole, not the 10 mm bumper clip, so order a set from Honda beforehand if you want a clean reinstall. For easier access, you can instead raise the car on a jack stand and pull the front wheel.
4 Remove the resonator retaining bolts
With the liner folded back, sight straight through the opening to locate a 10 mm bolt on the resonator body and remove it. A second 10 mm bolt sits near the U-shaped intake tube - take that one out as well. A third bolt toward the front does not need to be removed; the assembly simply unclips from it.
5 Separate and extract the assembly
Rock the resonator box back and forth to pop it off the front locating bolt. Uncouple the U-shaped tube from the box at its lower rubber joint - this seal is tight and takes genuine effort to break. Withdraw the box downward out of the fender well, then lift the tube up and out through the engine bay. If the wheel-well route resists, jacking the car and dropping the box straight down is a proven alternative.
6 Reassemble and secure the liner
Reverse the sequence to refit the airbox and filter. Take particular care to reseat the inner fender liner completely and to replace any broken clips; a loose liner will rub against the tire on sharp turns and can eventually work itself free. Snug the airbox bolts and confirm the filter lid is seated before finishing up.
Pro Tips
- 💡 The benefit is almost entirely acoustic - expect a louder induction sound, especially past VTEC engagement, rather than a measurable power increase.
- 💡 Removing the front bumper or the entire wheel turns an awkward job into a quick one; some owners finish in roughly five minutes with the bumper off.
- 💡 Fit a high-flow filter such as a K&N to help keep dirt out once the silencer is gone, and clean it about every 30,000 miles.
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