K-Swap First Start with a Hondata K-Pro: Base Calibration, Immobilizer and Sensor Setup

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Time 1-2 hours

Level Moderate

Steps 14

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Caution

Do not start the engine until a calibration that suits the engine is uploaded.
Low-impedance injectors without a resistor box can damage the ECU and wiring.
Have a fire extinguisher at hand for any first start of a swapped engine and check for fuel leaks first.

Introduction

A K-swap usually runs a Hondata K-Pro so the immobilizer can be turned off and the ECU set up for the swap. This guide covers only the basic setup Hondata documents before a first start: checks, loading a base calibration, the swap-related options, throttle calibration and uploading. It is not a tuning guide. Hondata says its library calibrations are a good starting point but usually need further tuning, so plan on a proper tune. Adapted from a community writeup by Hondata on hondata.com (https://www.hondata.com/help/kmanager/installationoverview.htm).

Procedure

14 steps

Step 1: Check injectors, plugs and engine ground

Hondata's warranty excludes damage from low-impedance injectors, non-resistor plugs and a bad engine ground. Use high-impedance (saturated) injectors or add a resistor box, use resistor spark plugs, and make sure the harness ground (G101) bolts to a clean stud on the cylinder head or the transmission end of the head.
Step 2: Install KManager and USB drivers

Download KManager from Hondata and install the USB drivers before connecting to the ECU.
Step 3: Plug in USB before mounting the ECU

On many cars the USB socket is hidden once the ECU is mounted, so plug the cable in first. Do not strain the connector, and keep its metal shield from touching the case or chassis ground. The ECU case does not need to be grounded.
Step 4: Verify the wiring with the key on

Before cranking, turn the key to ON and connect KManager. Confirm TPS, MAP and ECT read sensibly (for example coolant near ambient on a cold engine). A bad reading usually means a swapped or loose connector.
Step 5: Start from a library calibration

Use the New Calibration window to pick the Hondata calibration whose description is closest to your engine and setup. Save it under a new name (.kal file).
Step 6: Turn off the immobilizer if the car has no K-series key

In Misc parameters, untick 'Immobilizer enabled' for an engine swap without the matching key and transponder. If you ever re-enable it, switch the ignition off and on again before the engine will start.
Step 7: Disable functions the swap does not have

Disable ELD if the chassis or conversion harness has no ELD circuit, and disable secondary O2, FTP or PA checks for hardware that is not present. Only disable the purge system on race cars with no evaporative system, otherwise the canister fills with fuel.
Step 8: Set the speed sensor option

Choose 'Normal' for a final-drive speed sensor, 'Countershaft driven speed sensor' for gearboxes such as the 2005 RSX type, or the K-Pro4 alternate input. 'No speed sensor' fixes speed at 50 mph and disables reverse lockout, so use it only as a last resort. Adjust the speedometer correction percentage if the gauge reads wrong.
Step 9: Match closed loop to your O2 sensor

Built-in wideband is the stock setting for PRB, PNF and PRD calibrations; PRA calibrations use a narrowband. With no O2 sensor, disable closed loop. Disable the secondary O2 sensor if there is none. Disable P1167 and P0134 only on race cars without a primary sensor.
Step 10: Enter injector size

If you fitted different injectors, enter their size; KManager rescales the fuel and cranking tables for the flow rating (but not the injector's other characteristics).
Step 11: Calibrate the throttle position sensor

With the engine off, close the throttle fully and use Read to set the minimum, then hold it wide open and Read the maximum. Normal range is 0.50 V closed to 4.50 V open. If TPS shows 100% closed and 0% open, the VCC and ground pins are swapped and must be re-pinned. If you get TPS codes, reset to defaults and redo it.
Step 12: Upload the calibration

With the ignition on, use Online, Upload (Ctrl+U). The first upload takes about a minute; later uploads take 3-15 seconds. Keep the battery on a maintainer so voltage does not drop mid-upload.
Step 13: First start and idle

Check for fuel leaks with the key on before cranking, and have a helper and a fire extinguisher ready. Start the engine and watch the oil pressure light, coolant temperature and air/fuel ratio. If the oil light stays on after a few seconds, or you see fuel, oil or coolant leaking, shut the engine off at once and find the cause. Some ignition timing movement at idle is normal, because the ECU varies timing to hold idle speed. Large jumps that line up with TPS changes point to a faulty TPS. Set the hot idle speed in Idle parameters if needed.
Step 14: Book a tune

Drive gently until the car is tuned. When tuning, Hondata recommends disabling closed-loop correction (for example by setting short-term trim limits to 0) so the ECU does not fight table changes.

Tips

If the green key light flashes because the ECU and key do not match, Hondata notes you can stop the flashing by unplugging the immobilizer transponder at the ignition barrel.
If your tucked or aftermarket engine harness does not connect the VTEC oil pressure switch, disable that input in the calibration so it does not set a code.

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