Honda S2000 Brake Fluid Flush by Gravity Bleeding
Introduction
This guide covers a full brake fluid flush on the Honda S2000 using the gravity-bleed method, in which the fluid is allowed to drain out under its own weight rather than being forced through with the brake pedal. No helper and no pedal pumping are required, which makes it a one-person job, but it is slower than pressure or pedal bleeding. The payoff is fresh, low-moisture fluid and a firm pedal. Because brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and loses boiling resistance over time, periodic flushing restores braking performance, especially for cars seeing track use. The same procedure applies to other Honda and Acura models such as the RSX, though the wheel bleeding order differs by model and should be confirmed for your car. Adapted from a community writeup by Maxima02 on Club RSX (https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-s2000-brake-fluid-change-gravity-method.540550/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- 10mm wrench
- Clear plastic drain hose (1/4" ID fits the bleeder nipple directly)
- Suction bulb (battery filler or turkey-baster style)
- Catch container or waste bottle
- Jack and jack stand(s)
- Plastic sheeting or bags and clean rags to protect paint
Parts Required
-
Fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid (DOT 5.1 also acceptable; never DOT 5) — e.g. ATE Super Blue and/or ATE Typ 200
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ Brake fluid destroys paint. Cover all nearby bodywork and wipe up any spills immediately.
- ⚠ Never let the reservoir drop too low while bleeding — air pulled into the lines means starting the bleed over.
- ⚠ Do not use DOT 5 (silicone) fluid. Use only DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5.1.
- ⚠ Support the car on jack stands before working near it; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠ Because the fluid absorbs moisture from the air, keep the reservoir open for as little time as possible.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Protect the paint and open the reservoir
Work on a cool car parked on level ground. Locate the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder and drape plastic sheeting or bags over the surrounding fender and painted surfaces, since brake fluid strips paint on contact. Remove the reservoir cap and lift out the internal filter screen so the fluid beneath it is accessible.
2 Draw out the old fluid from the reservoir
Using a suction bulb, pull out as much of the aged fluid as you can reach in the reservoir. To clear sediment that has settled at the bottom, refill with fresh fluid and repeat the suction; this dilutes the grime so less of it can be drawn down into the brake lines during bleeding.
3 Refill with fresh fluid and reseal
Fill the reservoir to its upper mark with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid. DOT 5.1 is also compatible, but never use DOT 5 silicone fluid. Reinstall the filter and cap. Keeping exposure short matters because the fluid is hydrophilic and absorbs atmospheric moisture, which lowers its boiling point.
4 Raise and support the vehicle
Loosen the lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground, then raise the car and set it securely on jack stands. Lifting all four corners at once, if you have the equipment, lets you move through every wheel without repositioning. Remove the wheels for access to the calipers.
5 Open the first bleeder and attach the drain hose
Begin at the first wheel in the sequence. Pull the rubber dust cap off the bleeder screw, fit a 10mm wrench, and crack the screw open roughly one turn until fluid starts to seep out. Slide a length of clear hose over the nipple to route the flow into the catch container. A narrow 1/4" ID hose can be pushed onto the nipple first, leaving room to seat the wrench afterward.
6 Bleed until the fluid runs clean, then close
Let gravity draw fluid through the line and watch its color at the hose. Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time; if the level drops too far, air is pulled into the system. Adding fluid also increases head pressure and speeds the flow. Once the stream shifts from the old color to the fresh fluid, close the bleeder, refit the rubber dust cap, and wipe away any residue near the wheel.
7 Work through the remaining wheels in order
Move to each remaining corner and repeat, doing one wheel at a time and refilling the reservoir as needed. On the S2000 the counter-clockwise order is passenger front, driver front, driver rear, passenger rear. The RSX uses a different sequence — driver front, then passenger front, followed by passenger rear and finally driver rear — so verify the correct pattern for your specific model before starting.
8 Set the final level and dispose of waste fluid
After the last corner, adjust the reservoir to the correct level and secure the cap. Reinstall the wheels and torque the lug nuts. Collect the drained fluid for proper disposal; pouring it into a gutter or down a drain is illegal, so check local regulations for an approved collection point.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Gravity bleeding is slow. If you flush brakes often, a pressure tool such as a Motive Power Bleeder lets you work alone without touching the pedal.
- 💡 Alternate two contrasting fluid colors — for example ATE Super Blue followed by ATE Typ 200 — so the color change at each bleeder is easy to spot.
- 💡 Keep the end of the drain hose submerged in fluid inside the catch bottle so air cannot be drawn back toward the bleeder.
- 💡 This gravity method works with the master cylinder cap left on.
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