Acura RSX (DC5) Side Skirt Painting: Matching Black Plastic Skirts to Body Color
Introduction
Base-model Acura RSX (DC5) coupes left the factory with unpainted black plastic side skirts along the rockers, a look many owners prefer to match to their car's body color. This guide covers painting those textured skirts at home with rattle cans: removing them, cleaning, priming, applying color, clear-coating, and refitting for a finish that reads close to stock at a fraction of body-shop cost (the original project came in under roughly 60 CDN). The technique suits small trim pieces such as skirts, lips, and wings, but not full bumpers or large panels, where the slight color mismatch and the lower durability of aerosol paint show more. Expect a very minor shade difference from the factory finish and some vulnerability to rock chips; by most accounts both are manageable and hard to notice. Adapted from a community writeup by jhova4hustla on Club RSX (https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/diy-guide-to-side-skirt-painting.358445/), including corrections from the follow-up discussion.
Reference
Tools Required
- Phillips screwdriver
- Heat gun (optional, to speed drying between coats)
- Floor jack and jack stands (only if the car is lowered and clip access is tight)
- Newspaper or a drop cloth for the paint area
Parts Required
-
Plastic-safe cleaner
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Colored primer rated for plastic surfaces
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Body-color paint mixed into an aerosol can from the door-jamb color code (one can, roughly 33 oz, covers both skirts)
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Automotive clear coat (keep a spare, as it is used up quickly)
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Matching touch-up paint for later rock chips
Safety Warnings
- ⚠ If you raise the car to reach the clips, always support it on jack stands. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack alone.
- ⚠ Do not reinstall the skirts until the paint has fully cured for 24 to 48 hours, or the finish will smudge.
- ⚠ Aerosol clear coat may lack strong UV protection, so expect possible gradual fading over time and be prepared to touch up or recoat.
Step-by-Step Instructions
1 Match your color code and order spray paint
Find the factory color code on the sticker inside the driver-side door jamb. Take that code to an automotive paint counter and have them mix the matching color into an aerosol can; local paint suppliers, dealer body shops, or online services such as automotivetouchup.com and paintscratch.com can all do this. Plan on one can of color (about 33 oz is enough for both skirts), one can of plastic primer, and one can of clear coat. Be aware the shade will differ very slightly from the factory finish, and that red and silver cars tend to reveal the mismatch a little more.
2 Remove the front mudguards
Working at one side of the car, take off the front mudguard (splash guard). Each guard is retained by three screws; back them out with a Phillips screwdriver and keep the hardware together. Repeat on the opposite side so both guards are out of the way before the skirts come off.
3 Release the clips and remove the side skirts
Each rocker skirt is held by four retaining clips along its underside. Pop these clips loose, then slide the skirt forward toward the front of the car to free it from its mounts. Each skirt should release in about ten minutes. If the car is lowered and you cannot reach the clips with a screwdriver, raise that corner with a jack and set it on a stand first; at stock ride height there is no need to lift the car at all.
4 Clean the skirts thoroughly
Wash and degrease the removed skirts with a plastic-safe cleaner and let them dry. A spotless surface is critical, because the rough factory plastic does not grip paint especially well and any residue will weaken adhesion. Lay out newspaper or a drop cloth to protect your work area for the coats that follow.
5 Prime in thin coats
Apply the plastic primer in light, sweeping passes rather than one heavy layer, keeping the can moving so the finish does not run or pool. Let each pass set roughly ten to fifteen minutes until it is dry to the touch; a heat gun held at a distance speeds this up. Build the primer to three or four thin coats this way for an even base.
6 Apply the color coats
Lay the color down in thin passes, moving in a single sweep from one end to the other per pass. Do not try to bury all the black at once. Let each coat flash off and dry, then add the next, repeating until the black plastic is fully and evenly covered. Patient, thin coats are what keep the finish from running and give a smooth result.
7 Seal with clear coat
Once the color is even and dry, lock it in with automotive clear coat applied in the same light, repeated passes. Expect to use a fair amount of clear, since it provides most of the gloss and surface protection. Note that aerosol clear may not be strongly UV-resistant, so some gradual fading over the years is possible.
8 Cure fully before reinstalling
Let the finished skirts cure a solid 24 to 48 hours before you handle them. Fitting them the same day, while the paint is still soft, will smear the finish and undo the work, so resist the temptation to rush this step.
9 Reinstall the skirts
For an easier refit, move any clips that stayed behind in the body over to the skirt itself: seat each clip into the skirt first, then press the skirt back onto the car and slide it into position. Refit the mudguards if you are keeping them. The skirts will stay secure as long as the front screws are tight and the working clips are engaged, even if one or two clips broke during removal.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Patience is the deciding factor. Rushing thin coats into thick ones is the main cause of runs and drips.
- 💡 The same method works on other small parts such as a rear wing, A-spec spoiler, or front lip; it is not recommended for bumpers or large panels.
- 💡 The skirts hold securely even if a clip or two breaks, provided the front screws are tight and the remaining clips seat properly; three good clips per side is enough.
- 💡 Keep matching touch-up paint on hand, since the coating can pick up small rock chips that are easy to dab in later.
- 💡 One can of color (about 33 oz) covers both skirts with primer to spare, but clear coat gets used up faster, so having a second can of clear is worth it.
- 💡 If no local paint shop is nearby, an Acura dealer or online color-match services can supply matched paint, primer, and clear.
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